Michelin Guide withdraws third star from L’Ambroisie
For decades, Bernard Pacaud has been using l’Ambroisie a cuisine of humility and precision, where the product speaks above all else. It’s a cuisine devoid of pretension, but one that is self-evident. To learn today that the house is losing its third Michelin star is truly poignant. Not only for the teams in place, but for all the customers who have experienced a moment of grace at the table.
On Instagram, Mathieu Pacaud, the chef’s son, posted a message as simple as it was moving. A child’s word for a father, a gesture of respect for a life devoted to cooking. Because behind the stars, there is a path. Bernard Pacaud’s is one of those that compel admiration: a man who built himself up alone, with rare rigor and sensitivity, to the point of making L’Ambroisie one of the most respected establishments in France.
I still remember lunch there, on Place des Vosges. A suspended moment, as only great restaurants can sometimes offer. I also remember running into Bernard Pacaud in a corridor after lunch. A discreet but striking presence, just like his cuisine. And then there are the dishes you never forget: langoustine feuillantines with sesame seeds and curry sauce, sea bass escalopines with artichoke slices and caviar and, of course, the fine shortbread tart with bitter cocoa and Bourbon vanilla ice cream.
At times like these, gastronomy is reminded that it is also a community. So, with all the kindness and respect that such a house deserves, we send our thoughts this evening to Bernard Pacaud, his wife, his family and the whole team at L’Ambroisie.
