Sébastien Vailland: the itinerary of a chef faithful to his roots
Sébastien Vailland always knew he’d work in the restaurant business. As a child, he would watch his grandmother, who ran an inn, busy herself in the kitchen and running the place. Perhaps, he says, this image unconsciously led him down this path. At home too, cooking was a central part of his life, especially during the Sunday meals prepared by his father and shared with friends. Sébastien loved to get his hands dirty, and took his first steps as a commis. By the age of ten, he already knew he wanted to make a career out of it, and set off at an early age on an apprenticeship, convinced of his vocation.
First steps in the kitchen
After beginning his training in a rather industrial restaurant, he continued his CAP at Le Belvédère in Annecy, where he discovered fresh produce cuisine and developed a real thirst for learning. He has fond memories of this period, aware that his apprenticeship instilled in him a taste for work well done and the rigor of the profession. Following his military service, he returned to Le Belvédère. It was then that chef Bernard Livron, looking for a cook for the Café de Certoux, heard about him. Sébastien joined the establishment in April 1994 as a commis, and remained there until 2003, before taking over a restaurant on Lake Annecy with his wife.
The entrepreneurial adventure lasted three years, during which Sébastien honed his management skills. One of his regular customers was chef Sophie Bise, who invited him to become her second at the Auberge du Père Bise. There, he discovers new approaches, learns new cooking methods, refines his techniques and deepens his vision of gastronomy, an experience that considerably broadens his know-how. In 2009, Bernard Livron asked him to return to the Café de Certoux. Sébastien accepted, armed with his experience and the desire to make a long-term commitment to the business. In 2017, the chef invited him to take over management with Grégory Lalin. The handover went smoothly, with Mr. Livron working part-time for five years. In 2019, Sébastien and Grégory officially took over the establishment, surrounded by a loyal team and a family spirit that is the strength of the place.
Tradition, transmission and creativity
Sébastien hasn’t worked in many establishments, but he’s learned from all of them. He continues to learn by reading, exchanging ideas with other chefs and discovering new restaurants. Very attached to the traditional cuisine he learned at a very young age, he takes great pleasure in passing on his knowledge and introducing the new generation to the cuisine of yesteryear. His hare à la royale, inspired by his time at the Auberge du Père Bise, is a recipe he likes to reproduce to link his past to his present.
As the seasons go by, the Café de Certoux reinvents itself: terrace, braséros, guinguette and winegrowers’ evenings in summer; mushroom and hunting menus in autumn; Christmas market with fondue and oysters in winter. The restaurant has always produced its own foie gras, smoked salmon and duck breast, nougat, macaroons and fruit jellies, all made on site. These products perpetuate an ancient know-how that Sébastien is keen to revive. During the holiday season, the restaurant closes, but Sébastien doesn’t take his hands off the stove and becomes a private chef for a family of clients. He enjoys these convivial, simple and human moments, where he rediscovers the essence of his profession and the pleasure of sharing. At times, he considers developing this activity, convinced that it is necessary to adapt to the times. But he will always stay the course: that of taste, work well done and quality raw products.
