Here at Home, Special Fall Evenings
How time flies! As I catch up with Julien Gatillon and his wife Sonia at their restaurant, Chez Nous—which is actually their home—I realize just how much we need to savor these moments. The chef reminds me that seven years have already passed since he left the Four Seasons—where he had earned two Michelin stars—to embark on this adventure in their chalet. It’s also been three years since the opening of Chez Vous and Anata, in the heart of Megève. And I always feel the same joy at seeing this couple again—humble, charming, and entrepreneurs at heart.
Open kitchen
During a casual conversation, the couple confided in me about their concerns regarding the future of France. Their commitment doesn’t erase those concerns. However, their bond and their desire to create remain strong, making each visit unique.
There’s still no snow in the landscape. It would have added a touch of magic to this fall evening, but the chalet is charming enough on its own. The open kitchen, the long table that seats up to twelve guests, the small living room where you can enjoy an aperitif—everything invites you to make yourself at home. The couple lives on the premises, so hosting takes on a special meaning—even in the wine cellar, which has been enriched with new selections and is spoken of with pride. Prices remain reasonable, based on a simple idea: to make guests want to come back. As for me, I mostly just want to stay.
Hunting Odyssey
Tonight, game takes center stage. The chest-roasted mallard kicks things off: the pink-fleshed fillets are separated and topped with a velvety butternut squash purée lightened with a tangy cream, all served with Piedmont hazelnuts. A game jus adds depth to the dish, while the sweetness of the squash tempers the game’s robust flavor without altering its character.
Next comes a cut of venison shoulder prepared in the style of “lièvre à la royale.” Cooked all night long, the meat falls apart easily with a spoon. The sauce, thickened with blood and enriched with foie gras, possesses that enveloping intensity that makes us love great game dishes. Less prestigious than the tenderloin, this humble cut becomes a highlight of the meal. The roe deer continues this culinary symphony with a tenderloin cooked to a perfect pink and a sublime polenta lasagna. Spread thinly, cut into sheets, and then dried, the polenta is baked au gratin with a cream of Mont d’Arbois porcini mushrooms, deglazed with port. It’s indulgent, precise, and deeply autumnal.
Cooked Truffles
The woodcock is served with a confit thigh and a pink-centered fillet, crisp white cabbage, and the first chestnuts of the season. The cognac sauce is enhanced with white Alba truffles, which aren’t yet ripe enough to be served in thin slices; so Julien chose to cook them. This commitment to serving ingredients at the peak of their quality is evident throughout the dinner.
That memorable hunting dinner, along with the joy of seeing Sonia and Julien Gatillon again, was pure happiness. Time passes, plans take shape, but their warm welcome remains the same. “Chez Nous” certainly lives up to its name: we’re at their home, and we feel so at ease there.
