Andrès Arocena, without raising his voice
Discreet, reserved, almost withdrawn, Andrès Arocena doesn’t need to raise his voice: his gaze is often enough to speak volumes. Five years after his arrival in Geneva, the results speak for themselves… calmly, precisely and remarkably well.
Symbolic anniversary
August marked a symbolic anniversary: five years of an adventure that began at almost the wrong time. Opening on the eve of Covid, a gamble in a neighborhood still in the process of inventing itself, an association born of the encounter between a young chef and a young entrepreneur. There was nothing flashy about it; it was all about a fair and assertive commitment. Geneva watched, then adopted. Slowly but surely.
At the restaurant La Michelinethe chef has developed his cuisine in the same way as he refines a speech: by cutting out the superfluous. The result is a clear gastronomic identity, in which Spain – Basque, Galician, Mediterranean – shines through without ever dominating the French gastronomic spirit. A precise, committed, elegant thread. No folklore, just memory. No bluster, just taste. A few steps away, on the same esplanade, Gigi traces its path with a delightful, almost insolent constancy: a cuisine that’s sunny, honest, accessible, always full, always right.
Restorative respite
Two restaurants, two energies, one philosophy. Success here can’t be counted; it can be felt in the stability of the teams, in the loyalty of the customers and in that rare feeling that everything is in its place. These five years have also been a time of learning. Sometimes to stand back. Necessary, almost vital breaks to be able to keep going and seize the opportunity to refocus a little. Closing for two and a half weeks at Christmas, taking a break – or almost taking a break – staying in Geneva in winter, walking by the lake, then heading off to the mountains with the family. Growing up, maturing, without losing momentum. Andres Arocena returns refreshed, with a blank page that he has now filled with black.
This new vintage promises continuity, with its characteristic calm energy. A wine list that has become impressive – over a thousand references – conceived not as a trophy, but as a viticultural playground. Spain occupies a central place on the list, a place that is assertive, educational and generous. Galicia, Jumilla, Sicilia: wines to tell, to transmit, to surprise. Even the idea of a homemade Albariño, served by the glass, is slowly taking shape. Always in no hurry, but knowing how to seize the right moment.
Gastronomic transmission
But for this self-assured perfectionist, wine, service and cuisine are one and the same. Same high standards. The same passion. The same transmission. The dining room is not a décor, it’s a relay. Here, a sincere welcome is preferred to a spectacular gesture, a smile to protocol, a just presence to omnipresence. We want everyone to feel at home. Let the team take ownership of the kitchen, the products, the words. To really get to know each other. On the plate, evolution takes place on a daily basis. No proclaimed revolution, but constant movement: better than yesterday, never set in stone. The France-Spain balance remains the foundation. Pleasure is the driving force. And the spring menu is already in sight.
Proud? Yes. Deeply so. But with our feet firmly on the ground. Awards – like the 17 Gault & Millau points – are welcomed with joy, then put away where they belong: behind the Tuesday morning’s work, behind the team, behind the suite. In Geneva, a city of restraint and rigor, Andrès Arocena has found his place without needing to raise his voice. A success in his own image, with patience, sincerity and durability. And always more motivated than ever.
