Rave party
Not always appreciated for its true worth, celeriac is finally being recognized on the gastronomic scene, and is regaining its status as one of the king’s vegetables. Chefs are cooking it up with pleasure and inventiveness, using seasonal recipes that are both gourmet and comforting. Customers, meanwhile, are seduced by its sweet, nutty fragrance. This year, a World Championship for the emblematic celery remoulade is being organized with three-starred chef Yannick Alléno as president, let’s immerse ourselves in the wonderful world of celeriac.
Despite its unattractive appearance, celeriac has finally won over its fans. With its rough bibendum appearance and hairy skin, it has nothing to please. Unlike its half-brother, the celery stick, whose green tife is inevitably found in a Bloody Mary, celeriac has only ever played a supporting role. Until now, that is… It was at Bruno Verjus ‘s table in Paris that the vegetable acquired all its letters of nobility. Langoureously roasted for hours, naturally caramelized, it is finely sliced by the chef and interwoven with strips of black truffle, giving the appearance of a mille-feuilles. Accompanied by a creamy vegetable jus, the moment is divine.
Edouard Amoiel – Celery risotto from the Bologna restaurant
“Mantecare
Back to Geneva, where chef Florian Le Bouhec has made it a Bologna classic alongside his Pata Negra pluma. The chef cooks the finely diced vegetable like a risotto, finishing with butter and parmesan (a tribute to the transalpine finishing touch, “mantecare”). Paired with a full-bodied meat jus spiked with black truffles, it’s accompanied by a slice of pan-fried foie gras; it doesn’t get much more gourmet than this. On rue de la Coulouvrenière, chef Jonas Bolle of Natürlich pays homage to the classic recipe for celery remoulade. After lightly cooking it in his in-house smoker, the young talent cuts it into julienne strips, mixes it with a lemon, vinegar and mustard mayonnaise and intelligently combines it with smoked Valais trout, a few croutons, trout roe and lovage. It’s magical!
Edouard Amoiel – Celery truffle mille feuille at Bruno Verjus
Carpaccio
For young vegan chef Tosca Olivi, celery remains in its simplest form. Cut into thin strips, it is arranged in symmetrical circles in the spirit of a carpaccio. Seasoned with lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, a few roasted pine nuts, chives, salt and pepper, this mouth-watering starter brings the vegetable to life.
