Yume thrills the night… and the taste buds
We need to encourage youth. Make room for trial and error, for daring, and for the irrepressible desire to shake things up. In catering more than anywhere else, entrepreneurship is an almost militant act: intellectual, creative, visceral. Geneva needs it. And some have understood this. Among them, Olav Spirig, head of Yume Dumpling Bara corner restaurant in the Pâquis district, is playing the game of free-spirited, no-holds-barred dining.
Night energy
We’d been there before and I went back. A quiet lunch, almost too quiet. The sun was beckoning elsewhere, and it’s not hard to guess that the place tells a different story once night falls. No matter. It gave me time to observe, write and feel. Because there’s something about this place: an extra soul, an energy that just floats in the air. Youth takes over, with its innocence and freedom.
The décor is raw, minimalist without being necessarily cold, crossed by wood, metal and light. A large central circular table catches the eye, set like a stage in front of speakers and two turntables. At night, DJs take to the stage, vinyl only, to get the vibes going. It’s easy to believe. The place already exudes this dual identity: gourmet and musical.
The essentials… dumplings
In the details too. The chopsticks, the metal tables, the flowers on the bar – all signs of an aesthetic that’s not rigid, but tasteful. A youthfulness that doesn’t cheat. And then there’s the essential… the dumplings. These steamed ravioli, the beating heart of the house, arrive piping hot, plump and serious. The pork dumplings, seasoned with fennel, dried shrimp and spring onion, strike an almost addictive balance. The “three-way mushroom” – shiitake, lion’s mane, foliote – plays a more earthy, profound, perfectly executed score. It’s no joke here.
The pickles, on the other hand, are a little too crude, barely cut, and still too crunchy. A detail. Almost an involuntary signature of a place that prefers to move forward rather than smooth out. We could have stopped there, but greed got the better of us. The double fried tofu, topped with a spicy chili mayo, generously prolongs the pleasure. We also think of the spicy cucumber salad as a good excuse to come back.
Suspended moment
Because we’ll be back. Probably in the evening this time. When the turntables are spinning, the glasses are clinking and the dumplings are accompanying the rhythm. Yume isn’t just another address; it’s a promise of a suspended moment. And Geneva would do well to take care of it.
