Victor Moriez writes new history at Pérolles
It’s always a joy to take to the road in a territory that’s not quite ours yet. Whatever the means of locomotion, the essential thing is elsewhere: in this suspended time that allows us to watch the scenery go by, to let our minds wander. We can already imagine a menu, a kitchen brigade hard at work, the first precise gestures announcing the services to come.
A story of transmission
At Fribourg’s Le Pérolles restaurant, the room is still half bare, like a distant Art Deco theater before the curtain rises. The tables are set, a timid light gently falls on the tablecloths, and somewhere, between a notebook and a computer, a few words are exchanged with Julien Ayer. We talk about work, transmission and know-how. Straight to the heart of the matter.
For here, a page has recently been turned. After the culinary decades marked by Pierre-André Ayer, the restaurant enters a new season in its history. A passing of the baton that doesn’t erase anything, but continues the spirit of the house: that of a cuisine that is demanding, sincere and deeply rooted.
New chef, first menu
Victor Moriez is now in charge. A chef by trade, precise in his gestures, inspired in his seasonings, attentive to local produce and cultures. An alumnus of Crissier’s Hôtel de Ville restaurant, he more recently worked in Benoît Carcenat’s kitchens, and has also embarked on the Valrose adventure… the CV is already stamped! His first menu is full of promise: high-flying dishes with a philosophy rooted in the terroir and inspired by his life and travels. The sauces are just right, the balance clean, the products respected.
So here we are, at lunchtime, in the heart of Fribourg. Seated at a high table, a table d’hôtes in the middle of the kitchens, as if we were front row seats at a play. Here, every gesture counts. In the kitchen and in the dining room. Because behind the apparent simplicity of a meal lies a meticulous ballet, rehearsed every day with the same exacting standards. Then, slowly, the show can begin. And believe me: in these establishments, which are among the finest in France, delighting guests is an art… and never a matter of course.
Humble and refined
From the very first bite, Victor Moriez’s cuisine reveals itself with a delightful clarity. There’s nothing here to impress unnecessarily: each element tells a story, each plate expresses itself with clarity. The ball opens with a delicate lovage bricelet, enhanced with a lemon gel that awakens the vegetable freshness. This is followed by a broth made from vegetable peelings, infused with smoked oil, adding unexpected depth. Humble in principle, refined in execution.
The rest plays on contrasts and textures. A tartlet marries Borne ham with a cream inspired by the traditional half-and-half vacherin-gruyère, softened by an onion confit that adds roundness and gourmandise. Then comes a potato rösti, crisp as it should be, accompanied by a slightly tangy hazelnut cream and trout roe. A treviso subtly softened with balsamic adds a controlled bitterness, like a breath of vegetal air to the score.
Coral tarama
The scallop continues this balancing act. Poached in a court-bouillon and topped with a bitter orange sauce, it is accompanied by its tempura beard, crisp and iodized. Next to it, a puff pastry topped with a coral tarama acts as a gourmet nod to a house classic – a memory revisited with elegance.
Further on, the plate is deliberately more daring. An almost “imperfect” combination of truffle, olive and arugula. A truffle cream flan dialogues with a mushroom tapenade, while a roasted mushroom jus, enriched with truffle cream and arugula oil, brings the whole together. A composition of aromatic layers, each flavor calling forth another.
The chef’s signature dish is as intriguing as it is seductive: Lake Maggiore pike-perch, salsify and coffee. Three ingredients, three expressions. The fish is adorned with an exceptional coffee sabayon, both deep and delicate. Next to it, a tartare tartlet of pike-perch, almost naked in its seasoning, and a few salsify chips prolong the play of textures.
Cereals and honey
Breton lobster continues this logic of precision around the product. The tail, simply snacked and coraled, retains all its nobility, while the claws come in shiso-flavored rillettes. The whole dish is enhanced by a civet-style red wine sauce, dense and enveloping, which adds depth and character.
Then comes the final sweetness. A gourmet dessert based on cereals and Rougemont alpine honey. Cereal infusion, honey ice cream, a touch of fresh honey, bread tuile and cereal emulsion punctuated with granola make up a picture that’s simple in appearance, but rich in nuance. A soft, almost comforting finish, like a last smile before leaving the table.
A long way to go
And for a first menu, the overriding feeling is one of real impression. Impressive for the style, for the precision of the pairings, for the natural way in which the sequences follow on from one another, for the assertive greediness and for the constant interplay of textures that give each plate its distinctive character. Impressive, too, for the selection of products and the overall coherence of an already highly accomplished score. It’s a feat that comes as no surprise, given the young chef’s obvious talent. The road ahead is long – and so much the better. Let’s wish him all the best in this new adventure, and look forward to returning to say hello to Victor Moriez and the whole Pérolles team.
