Yume, dumplings and vinyls
After foie gras, oysters and capon, it’s time to get back to basics, to our favorite part of the meal: sitting down and being served. It’s in the Pâquis district that we venture, on a bitterly cold day, to push open the door of Chez Yume. The establishment isn’t open yet, but a line is already stretching out in front of the entrance. Once you’ve crossed the threshold, the décor takes over: a Scandinavian ambience of metal armchairs, wooden walls and a raw concrete ceiling. That evening, Yume entrusted his turntables to Acro Pora, who was invited to take the room on a journey through his vinyl collection of soul, French boogie and disco.
Clarified cocktails
The meal begins – not without a feeling of guilt towards Dry January – with two signature cocktails: the Negroni and the Lemongrass & Guava Cooler. At Yume, clarification is a benchmark. The Lemongrass is no exception, offering a lively, crystalline beverage spiked with herbal oil, where guava juice lends an airy sweetness. Negroni, meanwhile, revisits the codes with a coffee-infused mezcal that intensifies the traditional Campari-vermouth duo. A perfectly mastered introduction, soon followed by the first plates.
Make way for dumplings, served in an assortment. On the menu: chicken, pork, mushrooms, not forgetting a suggestion of seasonal vegetables with an assumed simplicity; but it’s the pork that catches the eye with its roundness, subtly awakened by fennel and black vinegar. The chicken plays the sweet card, with an almost caramelized shredded meat. As for the 3-way mushrooms, the attack is frank, dominated by concentrated mushrooms, before spinach takes over. The dough is supple and the texture melting. Each bite asserts its personality, while maintaining the right balance.
Chinese noodles
The sides are also worth a detour: a spicy cucumber salad, oscillating between freshness and spiciness, and a double fried tofu, more direct but formidably effective, escorted by a spicy mayo. But the real star of the table remains the Biangbiang mian: large Chinese noodles, generously spiced, with complex flavors and marked depth. As the music gets louder and the DJ settles in behind the decks, the meal ends on a sweet note. No white miso cannelés that evening, we console ourselves with a black sesame and olive oil cheesecake, as surprising as it is elegant.
In just a few weeks, Yume has made a name for itself with its sincere, perfectly mastered cuisine. The Nordic atmosphere of the place, combined with English-only service, creates a timeless interlude. One thing’s for sure: you’ll want to come back again and again – but don’t forget to make a reservation!
