Sonnenhof Mechanical

Sonnenhof Mechanical

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

18 août 2021

Despite an excessively rigorous approach to dining, the Sonnenhof restaurant overlooking the village of Saanen remains a fine gourmet interlude.

The beauty of this traditional Swiss chalet with its flower-filled balconies! On a balmy summer’s evening, the terrace boasts one of the finest panoramas in the region, and meals become a feast. Masterfully orchestrated for two decades by chef Erich Baumer, the Sonnenhof is as elegant as it is convivial, and gourmets can discover, just a stone’s throw from Gstaad, dishes and recipes that have become unmissable.

Edouard Amoiel

A solid reputation

When you open the menu, two culinary points of view collide to become one. On the left, the proposals and on the right, the house classics. Despite a few timid attempts at innovation, such as warm lobster, pea hummus and mint mayonnaise, or a delight of crabmeat, wild prawns, cucumber and yoghurt, classic bourgeois cuisine dominates.

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

Foie gras marbré, artichoke or lamb’s lettuce salad, tuna carpaccio, beef tartar, filet of sole, saddle of lamb and the famous beef tenderloin tips with Strogonoff sauce are just some of the dishes that have earned the restaurant a solid reputation. No revolution, but a fine execution. The mesclun salad with warm chanterelles and tarragon vinaigrette is a tempting starter, before giving way to the tasty veal thinly sliced with mushrooms, cream sauce and rösti.

Service

But that’s where the problem lies. Normally, service and cuisine are closely intertwined, a bit like a two-pronged menu. While the Sonnenhof’s gastronomy melts into generosity and gourmandise, the wait staff is extremely rigid and severe. Whether it’s insistent requests to take an order, an indelicate plate placement, an attitude that reinforces the unpleasant impression that the customer is being discarded or a coldly presented bill, the magic of the place no longer works enough to make up for it. We can tolerate an occasional dip in performance, but at this point (and for an entire dining room team)… it’s a real shame!