Sesflo: Beyond the Titles…
I often say this: it takes courage to get into the restaurant business. It probably takes even more when you take over a place that has changed hands many times and is now searching for its own identity.
New Group
I won’t go into detail about the Maniatis Group’s takeover of the establishment, under the supervision of Cyrille Azevedo, who is already behind Club 21 and Moon in Eaux-Vives. Today, the group has decided to set up shop on the Route de Florissant—not out of a desire to gentrify the area, but with the ambition of revitalizing this stagnant Geneva thoroughfare, lined with tea rooms and shops that seem frozen in time.
Sesflo isn’t exactly the easiest place to get to know, though. Its terrace is tucked away from the street—shielded from the noise of the surrounding traffic—in a true haven of peace that deserves to be better known and better laid out to give the space a more open feel. No big deal.
Rise to the Challenge
Inside, you can sense that a new team has taken over the place with a desire to do well. And it’s the younger generation that has taken over the dining room and the kitchens. At the helm is Simon Varaine, Quentin Philippe’s former right-hand man at Arakel. Despite his young age, the chef has accepted the challenge. He’s rolled up his sleeves—for lack of a chef’s hat—to take charge of a restaurant that demands as much energy as it does personality.
When I first looked at the menu, I must admit, some of the dish names left me puzzled. Burrata, sea bass ceviche, tuna tataki, Caesar salad… These are all dishes you’ll find on many menus today. I can understand why they’re on the menu—they certainly meet the expectations of a fairly broad clientele—but they also contribute to a form of culinary standardization that ultimately makes restaurants interchangeable. And in the case of Sesflo, these are dishes that are far removed from Simon Varaine’s culinary identity and the new direction he hopes to take the restaurant.
Artichoke and Feta
But don’t stop at just a first glance at the menu. And above all, don’t fall into the trap of those reassuring dish names. Instead, choose the dishes where Simon Varaine expresses himself most freely: that’s where you’ll truly discover his talent. I was first drawn to an artichoke served with feta, pomegranate, and candied lemon. An elegant, colorful dish with plenty of depth. The artichoke is fried, which might be worth mentioning when ordering. The description could lead one to expect a raw preparation, chopped into a salad and therefore fresher. The surprise did not disappoint.
Also not to be missed is the pissaladière, a Provençal onion tart that can lack lightness if it isn’t prepared with finesse. The one Simon Varaine serves is as thin as a sheet of cigarette paper. Precise, crispy, and flavorful, it showcases great skill beneath its apparent simplicity.
Personal History
The cod is a success. Its pearly finish reveals tender, delicate flesh. It is topped with a light saffron mussel cream sauce that complements the fish’s delicate flavor, subtly enhanced by the saffron. A few tiny cubes of chorizo add character, though they would have been better if incorporated or arranged differently.
Life is good at Sesflo in Florissant. It remains to be seen what the future holds for this establishment, which has undergone many changes. The place has charm, features a beautiful terrace, and the new team seems to have the energy it needs. We’ll undoubtedly need to give the restaurant time to fully establish its direction and, above all, allow Simon Varaine to put his stamp on the entire menu. Because once you look beyond the most familiar dishes, Le Sesflo already tells a much more personal story.
