Romain Paillereau Takes to the Skies
Edouard Amoiel
30 août 2026
This coming November 11 will mark five years since Romain Paillereau hung up his knives at the Trois Toursin Bourguillon, in the hills above Fribourg. It’s a much more imposing establishment than La Pinte des Mossettes, where he had made a name for himself and developed an authentic style of cooking that reflected his personality. After these five years, the chef is still there. But the man himself has changed. “If it were just about cooking, it would be much easier,” he smiles. At Les Trois Tours, Romain Paillereau has discovered another facet of his profession: that of a business owner. Management, finances, administration, staff… “The ship is twice as big. You have to be much more rigorous.” The kitchen remains his natural habitat. The rest, he had to learn.
Go to the movies
When he took over Les Trois Tours, Romain knew he was coming to a restaurant with a history, a clientele, and established routines. He expected customers to make comparisons, just as they had at Les Mossettes. Some are immediately supportive, while others make it clear to him that “the food isn’t the same anymore.” He needs to give himself some time to fully come to terms with the situation, build a new team, and find the right rhythm.
Today, some of those who had chosen to wait are once again walking through the door. They return, discover the chef’s cuisine, and realize that he doesn’t hesitate to step away from the stove—if only for a moment—to join them in the dining room. Romain enjoys chatting with his guests. And that, too, is part of the atmosphere he wanted to create at Les Trois Tours.
Growing Up with the House
At 42, he describes himself today as more mature and more level-headed. Not really by choice, but rather “by necessity.” A few weeks before the opening of Les Trois Tours, his personal life was turned upside down. Today, as a father who is very involved in his son’s life, he must balance raising a child with the day-to-day realities of running a fine-dining restaurant. This responsibility has also changed the way he leads. The Romain Paillereau of the past might have reacted immediately. Today, he considers the consequences of a decision on his entire team. Does an employee make a mistake? Before making a decision, he thinks about those who will have to cover for the employee’s absence, work back-to-back shifts, or deal with increased fatigue.
“I always put the company before myself.” A statement that speaks volumes about how much has changed in five years. For him, taking a step back also means accepting that leadership isn’t just about making decisions for oneself. Yet this maturity has in no way dampened his ambition in the kitchen. On the contrary. When he looks at the first dishes served at Les Trois Tours and those of today, he realizes how far he’s come. “The standard is definitely much higher than before.” This need to move forward seems almost visceral. “If I stagnate—even personally—it’s not good.”
Independence at Any Cost
And for Romain Paillereau, progress isn’t just about perfecting a cooking technique or coming up with a new dish. It can lie in an almost imperceptible detail. In his mind, the experience exists even before it takes shape. He envisions the presentation, the table, the objects, and the service. Being independent today also means dealing with an economic reality that has become much more strained. He traces the change back to the pandemic. Purchasing power has shrunk, while the cost of virtually everything a restaurant buys has gone up: fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, and supplies… Taken together, these increases quickly add up to thousands of francs more, without it being possible to pass on all of these costs to customers.
Today, he says he feels a gradual improvement. And above all, he remains true to his nature: seeing things through to the end. To understand Romain Paillereau, perhaps all you need to do is look at what will soon be served at Les Trois Tours. With the start of hunting season, his hare à la royale will make a comeback—a dish he already prepared at Les Mossettes and for which some customers make the trip all the way from France. Deboned flat, rolled up, and sewn shut, the hare is cooked for two days, rested for one day, and then portioned. It’s served with mashed potatoes in the grand tradition of Joël Robuchon. Two classics. No frills. But a tremendous amount of work.
Owner and Chef
Romain Paillereau has matured; he has learned to be patient and to control his immediate reactions in order to look a little further ahead. He has become the owner without ceasing to be a chef. More composed, certainly. Less demanding? Never. At Les Trois Tours, in the hills above Fribourg, Romain Paillereau seems to have found what he was looking for: a place large enough to allow him to keep moving forward.
