Right at noon at the Café des Voyageurs

Right at noon at the Café des Voyageurs

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

10 novembre 2026

I was the first one at the table, right at noon. The setting was familiar to me, but the faces had changed. It took a mushroom salad, a few perch fillets, and a dining room that was gradually filling up for me to realize just how much I enjoyed being back at the Café des Voyageurs.

Oh, how quickly time flies, my dear epicureans! I realized this all the more as I stepped through the door of the Café des Voyageurs. I was the first one there, punctual as a model student, and I had plenty of time to look around. I recognized the decor, the atmosphere, and that strange feeling—as I sat down—that my last lunch here had been just last week. I’d had such a good time there. Why had it taken me so long to come back?

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The Voyageurs Restaurant in Geneva ©Edouard Amoiel

Simple Moments

Back when we used to hang out at Les Voyageurs, Geneva didn’t have much to offer us. I think back to Plainpalais, the Hôpital neighborhood, and Eaux-Vives. We’d quickly run through all the “good” restaurants. There were a few pizzerias and our Italian taverns, some of which are still there, though sometimes under new ownership. And then there were the brasseries. Lipp and the Café du Centre remain go-to spots for those who love that Parisian atmosphere. We’d go to Les Voyageurs for those simple, joyful moments that we still remember years later—even if we don’t necessarily recall what we ordered.

The owner, on the other hand, I remember very well. He would tell us the specials and, right after that, the prices. I liked that approach. We knew exactly what to expect on our plates and on the check. The owner and the staff have changed since then. But as the minutes tick by, the tables fill up, and the model student who arrived at noon sharp finds himself in the middle of a restaurant that has managed to build a loyal customer base.

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The nets at Les Voyageurs’ perch ©Edouard Amoiel

Simple Titles

The menu is laminated, and the tables don’t have white tablecloths. I order a salad with mushrooms and crayfish tails. The salad arrives untossed, and the mushrooms, roughly chopped, retain all their crunch. The description on the menu is just a few words long. On the plate, it’s just as simple as it is on the menu, and I enjoy every bite of this appetizer. There are days when this is exactly what I was hoping for.

Next up, perch fillets. I’m told right away that they don’t come from the lake. I’m happy to order them. The portion is generous, the accompanying vegetables are unobtrusive, and the fries are crispy, though they have a slightly overpowering smell of oil. As I ate, I wondered how much of my enjoyment came from my memories. It’s hard to say. In any case, I know exactly what I loved about that lunch—right down to the details, like those mushrooms that could have been sliced a bit thinner but, all things considered, were just fine the way they were.

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The Café Restaurant des Voyageurs ©Edouard Amoiel

Memories, memories

Speaking of the dining room, the faces have changed too, but I found the same warmth in the service. The staff is efficient, they smile, and they let you eat at your own pace. That’s something I particularly appreciate at lunchtime, when everyone arrives with whatever little time they have. Once the dining room was full, I rediscovered what I’d always loved so much about this place: that welcoming atmosphere that makes an ordinary lunch truly delightful.

Today, I’m spoiled for choice. Here I am in front of the modern Eaux-Vives train station, happy to have eaten crisp mushrooms and perch fillets at a neighborhood bistro. I’d only come for lunch, but during a brief aside, the Café des Voyageurs transported me back to my memories.