What if I told you I was impressed? I walked up to this venerable institution, not feeling any apprehension at the thought of stepping through the door, but simply filled with admiration. For a history, a journey, and a vision—one that was so ahead of its time that we sometimes forget just how groundbreaking it was. By constantly judging this cuisine—which some call “archaic”—they end up losing sight of what Paul Bocuse contributed to their own.
Happy Pilgrimage
Before Monsieur Paul, there was also this young man who served in the French Liberation Army and was wounded during World War II. Then there was the cook, who became a local figure without ever severing the ties that bound him to Collonges and the banks of the Saône. Returning here is like rediscovering a part of that history and feeling, once again, an almost childlike excitement.
Once you arrive in front of the building, I suggest you take a moment. Take a look at it before crossing the threshold; there is so much to take in from this place, so much to understand about those who came before us. The word “pilgrimage” comes to mind naturally. But it’s a joyful pilgrimage, in excellent company, with appetite as your only devotion.
Now that vacuum-sealing has become second nature, I sometimes wonder what place we still reserve for the art of roasting and the craft of sauce-making. Here, these skills are alive and well and have a bright future. Gilles Reinhardt and Olivier Couvin, both Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, are dedicated to passing them on every day. A sauce is meant to be tasted! It requires time, judgment, and a sensitivity that no preset temperature can ever replace.
Champagne Sauce
In the dining room, we’re delighted to be reunited with sommelier Maxime Valéry, formerly of La Vague d’Or in Saint-Tropez. With him here, the wine celebration can begin. All around us, smiling guests seem to share the same joy. We sit down and watch…. Lunch has already begun even before we’ve taken our first bite.
Next come these pikeperch quenelles, light and delicate, filled with a concentrated shellfish elixir and topped with a sauce that envelops them without overpowering them. Reminiscent of a beurre blanc but whipped with champagne, it takes the culinary experience to new heights. It’s deep, delicate, and intensely flavorful. You almost find yourself slowing down without even realizing it.
The wolf in crust, served with Choron sauce, prolongs this delight. The service at the guéridon allows guests to watch the chef at work, appreciate the precision of his movements, and wait just a little longer before tasting the dish. This attention to detail, right in front of the guest, adds greatly to the pleasure of the meal.
Majestic Vol-au-vent
And what about the vol-au-vent? Majestic, masterful. When cut, the puff pastry crumbles while still holding its shape. It crackles, offers just enough resistance, then gives way. A creamy sauce coats the filling of veal sweetbreads, roast veal, and veal quenelles, all served with a few wonderfully cooked vegetables. What a treat!
I love that phrase. A moment of gastronomic freedom, where you can enjoy a sauce, a flaky pastry, or the service without having to justify yourself. Where history fuels the pleasure… quite simply. On the drive back to Geneva, the passing kilometers give way to daydreaming. We talk again about this sensitive and generous cuisine, whose balance and lightness have enchanted us. A cuisine that has evolved with the times while retaining what makes it so precious: its ability to move us. The House of Paul Bocuse remains at the pinnacle of its art. And from the Milky Way, Monsieur Paul can continue to watch over it.
