Number 15… bis
Yes, yes, yes… the Plainpalais plain is an architectural no-man’s-land. Apart from the concrete skate park, the occasional Knie circus tent, the sanitized Luna Park rides (last edition in the midst of a health crisis – congratulations again to our politicians for this cantonal debacle), the weekly flea market and the Sunday market, there’s nothing intellectually stimulating going on on this sad square not far from the Parc des Bastions. And yet, so close to the Bains district and its contemporary galleries, watchmaking museum and theaters, the outskirts of the “plain” are bustling with activity. The 15bis restaurant is an integral part of this culinary movement. Let’s take a look at an establishment that’s proving to be a real hit.
Edouard Amoiel
Double duo
Relatively mild weather means we can still have lunch on the terrace, even with the restrictions of the health pass that has just been introduced in Switzerland. Despite the charm of the stone walls, the tasteful decorative elements and the brightness provided by the large corner windows, the room lacks a little something to bring it (back) to life. Not to worry, the restaurant’s owner duo, Patrick Lejot and Olivier Philip, deliver a service that’s as light as it is relaxed. But it’s in the kitchen that the flame is lit, with another power duo, Clément Torres and Bastian Ruga, offering a contemporary, original menu with a healthy dose of gourmandise.
Edouard Amoiel – Cod
After successive stints in the kitchens of the Sublime and Den restaurants – listed in the World 50 Best and Asia 50 Best rankings – and then on the shores of Lake Annecy, Clément Torres arrives in Geneva to continue his successful career.
Discovery… A highly appreciated originality: each dish on the menu is offered as a starter or a main course, giving you the possibility of multiplying culinary combinations. It’s the cod tournedos cooked at low temperature that catches the eye. Accompanied by a Frégola risotto (a Sardinian specialty) and enhanced by a few fish roe, the starter is electrifying.
Butter Chicken
Even if its execution is surely successful, let’s avoid the recurrent beef tataki that appears on so many restaurant menus in the city of Calvin and far beyond. In fact, an in-depth deciphering of this culinary standard will soon be available. Anyway, back to the octopus, superbly cooked and disconcertingly tender. The mollusc is topped with a dense, unctuous butter chicken sauce, escorted by a lentil hummus encased in sweet onion. The dish is a true gift of taste. Magnificent!
Edouard Amoiel – Le poulpe
Things are happening at 15 bis avenue du Mail. An emotion that runs through us in these uncertain times, when the restaurant business has been hit hard. Through their dishes, Clément and Bastian manage to cheer up our hearts in an age of QR codes, PCR tests and social distancing. Don’t give up, and keep up the fight, because cooking deserves to be defended. I promise, next time I’ll go for the Snickers… a chocolate moelleux, peanut custard and chocolate crunch!
