Nordic charm

Chronicle

Nordic charm

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

09 août 2021

A culinary breeze from the North blows into Aubonne with the Njørden restaurant, a gastronomic stopover that's a must when visiting Vaud.

After passing through the first room, dedicated to Scandinavian bistronomy, and then up the stairs to chef Philippe Deslarzes’ gastronomic universe, you’re suddenly seduced by the uncluttered decor, with unadorned furniture reflecting functionality in a blue and beige color scheme. Even if the décor gives the impression of being in a high-end Scandinavian design showroom, it’s nevertheless hard to remain unmoved by the serene, soothing atmosphere that hangs over this restaurant in the heart of Aubonne.

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

Culinary identity

It took years of reflection for the Swedish-born chef to create his Nordic theater from scratch. What audacity… and what success! While highlighting local produce, Philippe Deslarzes and his teams manage to maintain a clear culinary identity. At Njørden, seafood products are given pride of place, to the delight of connoisseurs. The chef juxtaposes cooking methods, textures and combinations with elegance and technical skill. The suggestion of the day begins with Arctic char cooked in escabeche with tarragon tips. With the wait staff on hand to support the chef’s cause, the festival can begin.

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

The first bites of meadowsweet cream with Siberian caviar immediately announce the culinary level and ambitions of the chef. The langoustine tartare and its multiple carrot compositions enhanced by a shellfish bisque only confirm the talent of a brigade eager to please. Buttery-roasted filet de ligne des côtes bretonnes with a creamy white wine sauce and variations of petit-pois and chanterelle pickles bring gourmet comfort to a menu that’s incisive and clear-cut. The strawberry dessert with Sichuan pepper, created by talented pastry chef Navickas Lucas, rounds off a colorful lunch that promises a bright future for this young house.

Enchantment

With a marvellous wine list originally listed by water current (the Rhône, Orbe, Trois Lacs, Saône, Loire, Rhine, Mediterranean and Adriatic coasts), the Njørden restaurant puts the discreet village of Aubonne on the gastronomic map of French-speaking Switzerland. Philippe Deslarzes’ precise culinary themes enchant his guests with a subtle touch of originality, a skilful blend of technical skill and a fine dose of gourmandise.

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