Mare e Monti, the start of a new story
I’ll admit it: I don’t go to the Old Town often enough. Yet this jewel box overlooking Geneva has a charm that few places can claim. Its ramparts, time-worn cobblestones, houses steeped in history and discreet alleyways create a setting that you’ll never tire of.
New chef
Beyond the hustle and bustle of the Place du Bourg-de-Four, a few quieter streets still harbor addresses worth discovering or rediscovering. We’ll be back soon, we promise. But that evening, it was at Mare e Monti that we decided to set our place settings for a gourmet escapade. An establishment we hadn’t been to in a long time, and where we’re seeing a real transformation.
In the dining room, a new all-female team is happily in place. Behind the stoves, chef Lucas Larrieu has taken over the reins and seems determined to breathe new life into an address that has undoubtedly yet to reveal its full potential. When the weather’s fine, it’s hard to resist the call of the terrace set up in the heart of the street. For the duration of a meal, you can almost forget Geneva and imagine yourself elsewhere.
Ceviche and matured rib steak
The wine list, still relatively concise and largely focused on a few natural references, accompanies an equally restrained culinary offering. This is good news. The panisses set the ball rolling: crispy on the outside, soft in the middle, they’re an instant reminder of the shores of Marseille. The spirit of sharing then comes to the table with a particularly successful shrimp “roll”. Here, the mayonnaise is well balanced and doesn’t overpower the taste of the shellfish. A dash of lemon, a brioche roll delicately buttered and the balance is found.
The last of the white asparagus is elegantly paired with a lovely sabayon, while the yellowtail ceviche brings freshness and vivacity. A plate with Japanese accents, topped with a crisp cabbage salad, evoking the spirit of the izakaya. To conclude, we share a perfectly mastered mature Galician entrecôte for two, which confirms the establishment’s commitment to offering generous cuisine without ostentation.
Evolution
However, it was at the end of the meal, in the course of the conversation, that we discovered that Mare e Monti was about to undergo even more profound changes. A new owner, a future name change, redevelopment work and a new identity: the ambitions are there. At the helm of the project, Jonathan Street intends to turn the page on previous concepts and write his own history. It’s an ambitious move, and one that could well enable this address to gain in visibility. All the more reason to take your eyes off your plate, head up to the Old Town and let yourself be surprised.
