Les Morainières, three stars against the current
A few weeks ago, at the Michelin Guide ceremony in Monaco, a table was awarded what many still consider to be the Holy Grail. Three stars. All three. Against all the odds, almost contrary to the prevailing noise, it was the restaurant Les Morainières, in Jongieux, that got the nod. Mickaël Arnoult orchestrates the kitchen. Ingrid, his wife, looks after the dining room. A duo, a trajectory, an irreducible pairing for some – a surprise for many.
Direction Jongieux
In the company of an epicurean, we went there. Not to judge. Not to “test” – a hateful, condescending word. Even less to verify the legitimacy of the three stars. Simply out of gourmet curiosity. Yes, Michelin has this power. Not a power, but an attraction that compels us to hit the road, fork in hand, almost instinctively. We left Geneva for Jongieux. An hour and a quarter later, the scenery had changed.
Spring has sprung without restraint. Everything is green, lively and bright. You get off the freeway and let yourself be carried along, almost without thinking, until you finally catch sight of this house set high up on the hillside, facing the valley. It really is a house. Neither a chalet nor a showy building. Simple, rooted in the earth. Enter.
Captivating panorama
The welcome is still hesitant. Already courteous, warm. We make our way down to the hall, changing pace. The space is humble, enveloping. It opens onto a breathtaking panorama. The view promises, without saying a word, suspended moments. The telephone will remain discreet. Perhaps a few photos. Fleeting thought: if we didn’t do this job, it would have stayed in the car.
Before talking about plates, we need to go back in time: that of chef Mickaël Arnoult, who spent time in Paris, England, then Flocons de Sel alongside Emmanuel Renaut, where he was second-in-command. In 2005, he created Les Morainières. Twenty years of seriousness, self-sacrifice and hard work have led to this precise moment. The stage is set. Time to sit down to dinner.
Crayfish tartar
We open the ball with a starter inspired by brandade. A Rhone catfish is delicately worked with potatoes and smoked leek. Pike caviar tops the dish, adding texture and a touch of saltiness. Stunning. We continue with a crayfish tartare, topped with a sparkling mandarin and tagete butter. This aromatic herb has almost citrus accents. Alongside, in a bowl, crayfish tails are accompanied by a deep carcass jus. A flaky brioche, topped with crayfish butter, tops it off. Bewitching.
Next, a detour into the undergrowth: morels stuffed with veal rest on a bed of shallots and herbs. On top, fine shavings of button mushrooms, cut in the shape of a flower, shelter a delicate duxelle. As an accompaniment, a mushroom concentrate, obtained by long dehydration, is enjoyed like an infusion to capture all its depth. Next comes lavaret from Lac du Bourget, served with a sabayon meunière and beurre blanc. The first asparagus of the season accompanies it. Finally, tarts combining lavaret cooked in salt and asparagus punctuate the sequence.
Beyond the stars and their noise, Les Morainières has established itself as a destination. A cuisine rooted in plants and lakes, punctuated by just the right sweet touches. An elegant reminder that emotion doesn’t require a central address.
