Le Cinq: Behind the Gold Leaf
Edouard Amoiel
11 août 2026
It had been a long time since I’d been back to the George V in Paris. There’s always something impressive about the idea of stepping through the doors of a luxury hotel. You have to step right in, without hesitation, without looking intimidated. The floral arrangements seem sculpted, the ceilings seem to go on forever, and the silence is almost as important as the conversations. For a few moments, the setting takes center stage. Then it fades into the background as the evening wears on.
Timeless Langoustines
A recent conversation with a foodie friend had made me want to return to discover Christian Le Squer’s cuisine at the restaurant Le Cinq. It was a cuisine I was familiar with… from a distance, but one I wanted to experience with fresh eyes. The Breton chef’s background speaks volumes on its own. One is more likely to picture ports, fishing nets, and sea spray than the gilded halls of a Parisian luxury hotel. Yet his roots still shine through in every dish he creates. The ingredients take center stage, without ever being overshadowed by technique—no matter how masterful it may be.
The langoustines, cooked just until firm, are a perfect example of this. The cooking is executed with remarkable precision. The mustard sabayon adds complexity and depth without ever overshadowing the main ingredient. The ingredient reigns supreme, as if it had been caught just a few hours earlier. They resemble this restaurant: timeless, refined, and deeply rooted in a certain vision of French gastronomy. Classicism is taken to its highest level here, with all that it offers… and all that it demands.
Veal sweetbreads with chanterelles
Next comes a reinterpretation of onion soup, as indulgent as it is elegant. At the bottom of the plate lies an onion au gratin with Parmesan. Then there’s an onion cream delicately encased in thin beads, a richer, slightly caramelized reduction, and a touch of Madeira to tie it all together. A contemporary take on this great Parisian classic, without ever straying from its spirit.
The veal sweetbreads are equally impressive. A perfectly roasted piece, crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth tender on the inside, served with chanterelles, almonds, and an incredibly delicate mushroom sauce. The geranium and basil sauce adds a herbal touch that beautifully balances the dish.
A Passionate Sommelier
The evening also owes a great deal to our meeting with David Piquet. After seven years at Villa Madie in Cassis, the new director of the wine department at this Parisian luxury hotel is taking over from Éric Beaumard, whose work has shaped one of France’s finest wine lists for decades. With remarkable insight, a keen ability to listen, and great humility, he skillfully guides us through the intricacies of this exceptional wine cellar. It was an encounter as warm and engaging as it was fascinating, one that naturally extends the experience envisioned by the hotel.
As dinner progressed, I found myself looking up from my plate. The ballet of the dining room is just as precise as that of the kitchen. A glance, a thoughtful gesture, a word whispered discreetly, a glass refilled before you even have a chance to think about it. Without ever going overboard, everyone seems to be playing their part in the same symphony. That may be what struck me most during the evening.
The gilded details eventually become mere decoration. What we really remember are the people. As I left the George V, I didn’t just take with me the memory of masterful cuisine. Above all, I left with the impression of having experienced a moment where every detail—from the plate to the service—seemed driven by a single purpose: to ensure a wonderful evening. And, after all, isn’t that what we expect from a great restaurant?
