Duo at the table
What a pleasure it is to find Julien Gatillon, free and fulfilled, behind the stove… and, what’s more, his own! Since June 9, the former chef at the Four Seasons in Megève has been hosting guests at Chez Nous (his home) in a relaxed yet focused manner. Alongside his partner Sonia Torland, he welcomes guests around a table where a top-flight menu is concocted for the privileged few seated. The restaurant is fully booked every day during the summer, and is already a great success. The cuisine has a lot to do with it, but so does the couple, who are very much in tune with the times, and who are undoubtedly responsible for the large number of customers. Their exclusive concept offers a tailor-made culinary experience, adapted to the region, the season and, above all, to the customers. An exceptional culinary adventure far removed from the traditional codes imposed by haute gastronomy.
Edouard Amoiel
Regional prelude
The weather is on our side on this balmy August evening. As we sample the amuse-bouches listed for each of our hosts’ favorite regions, an orange sunset envelops the contours of the green mountains of the famous Savoyard resort. It’s against this impressive backdrop that we taste our first creations. Savoie opens the ball with a trout (caught by the chef himself) accompanied by fresh almonds and seasoned with a meadowsweet syrup. Burgundy takes up the torch with a cromesquis of braised bœuf bourguignon, before giving way to Poitou-Charentes with a marinière of cockles and razor clams in a lovage sauce.
Edouard Amoiel – Arctic char
After a stop in the cellar, which already offers a fine range of wines, it’s time to sit down to dinner, without really knowing where the chef is going to take us. From his open kitchen overlooking the dining room, behind his counter, he stays as close as possible to his guests. An atmosphere of relaxation and exchange quickly sets in. There’s no menu on the horizon… we’re plunged into the world of Gatillon.
Concentrated happiness
The tomato stuffed with crab, seasoned with caviar and bottarga, is already a smashing starter, leaving us speechless. Lake Geneva Arctic char, fennel confit, Bouchot mussel and saffron sauce confirm the level before giving way to the superb porcini cookie with surprise egg yolk. Picked by the chef himself, this is an emotionally-charged vegetable sequence! Right down to the last spoonful marking the end of an anthology dish, each mouthful is a concentrate of happiness.
Edouard Amoiel – Veal fillet
The veal fillet, chanterelle duxelle, wild garlic siphon is just as irresistible as the mushrooms that accompany it; a form of reconciliation with the meat dish whose fashion is slightly waning. Although I feel that a small platter of regional cheeses is lacking, the crushed potato with beaufort and vin jaune sauce fulfills its cheesemaking role with dignity. On the sweet side, the vanilla and meadowsweet soufflé is perfectly executed, confirming its place as one of France’s classic desserts.
With his characteristic modesty and discretion, Julien Gatillon makes our hearts and taste buds sing. From start to finish, the chef excels and masters his subject. Surprised? Not really…given the already impressive experience of this young man in his thirties. Un moment chez Nous is a gastronomic gift where all the elements intertwine for our greatest pleasure. We thank you…
