Committed canteen
Returning to chef Walter El Nagar’s solidarity restaurant was an obligation. To come back to support and to come back to talk about it. Who better than writing to bear witness? Dissect to better support, dissert to better sponsor. For this committed chef, providing help is an important part of the commitment that has accompanied him since the beginning of his career: cooking for those most in need. It’s hard to remain insensitive to such an approach in a world that is more divisive than ever. A few weeks after cutting the red ribbon inaugurating his brand-new dining hall, the “Mad Chef”, as he calls himself on his Instagram account, is pulling out all the stops for those in distress.
Edouard Amoiel
Uncomplicated canteen
In the dining room, large bay windows let in much-needed natural light in early spring, and the concrete décor blends harmoniously with the wood. With its brand-new open kitchen, the refectory has the air of a modern, contemporary gourmet restaurant. As boxes filled with essentials destined for Ukrainian refugees set off, Walter El Nagar and Luis Sa rigorously and precisely refine the week’s menu, which will be served free of charge in the evening to those in need. It’s been a long and arduous journey to achieve a result that lives up to the chef’s vision.
In addition to a few small modifications along the way, the menu changes every week. On the vegetarian side, the menu features treviso leaves with a beet sauce covering fresh cheese. On the omnivorous side, the team proposes a spicy pike-perch in the spirit of ceviche, accompanied by lacto-fermented radishes and pickled onions. An assertive and clearly mastered contrast! Both formulas feature pasta: marvellous cabbage ravioli encased in bear-garlic pesto, and pappardelle topped with a wild boar and mushroom ragout in red wine. Always with a touch of originality, a pannacotta with salted strawberries rounds off the lunch.
Edouard Amoiel
Social fragility
This cultural project finally puts Geneva at the center of a humanitarian action in which gastronomy also has a role to play. Who else but Walter El Nagar could bring this mission to fruition and ensure that it continues in the months and years to come? At a time when social fragility is constantly emerging, shouldn’t we be making a contribution?
