Ciro, the constancy of the heart
Some cooks don’t cheat. They cook. It’s a fact that Ciro has been attesting to for years, service after service. And that’s more than enough to create emotion. In his Trattoria Gourmet in Pâquis, his transalpine cuisine expresses itself with an almost disarming elegance. Here, there’s no showboating, no unnecessary froth, no fancy tricks. Just solid technique, constant precision and, above all, generosity that touches the heart. Every time you visit, you get the same feeling: that of a deeply sincere cuisine, designed for the pure pleasure of your guests.
Faithful menu
It’s true that service hasn’t always followed the same demanding score. But on my last visit, for a remarkable lunch, the dining room was in perfect harmony with the kitchen. The right presence, the right rhythm, the natural smile: these are the qualities that transform a very good meal into a real moment.
The menu remains true to the house’s DNA: short, clear, but terribly seductive. A tarte tatin of red onions and burrata, escorted by a spinach saladine, immediately catches the eye. Carpaccio of beef fillet, Barolo tomme and Piedmont hazelnuts, sets the tone right from the start. But the scallops, artichoke and Colonnata bacon stand out. Pearly through and through, executed with exemplary precision, they are a reminder that simplicity, when mastered, becomes great cuisine.
Rooms to share
Then it was hard to resist the gnocchi of pumpkin, sage and chanterelle mushrooms, topped with a delicious beurre blanc. The temptation was great to continue with monkfish, cauliflower and guanciale, or langoustine with garlic and peperoncino. But this time, reason prevailed.
One notable change is that the chef now offers fine cuts to share. Blonde Galician prime rib, Swiss Black Angus T-bone or sole meunière. The result is a table full of celebrations for lovers and friends alike.
In Geneva’s increasingly tense restaurant scene, Ciro continues to forge ahead, with the same passion and uprightness. A quiet trajectory, but with great depth. Ciro charms. Ciro bewitches. And, above all, Ciro cooks… always wonderfully well.
