At the Plaza Athénée, revolution gives way to ebullience!

Mercato

As soon as his arrival was announced, the media went into a frenzy and the wildest gossip circulated on the web, fascinated by this daring recruitment worthy of a soccer mercato. Detractors stunned by hotel group’s provocative choice  Dorchester Collection and cried lèse-majesté. Admirers see in Jean Imbert the advent of an elitist, stilted haute gastronomy that intimidates and impresses. Be that as it may, the buzz from the news worked like a charm, and the palace on Avenue Montaigne was back in the headlines. With a culinary concept that smoothes out the traditional cocorico cuisine in a lush, opulent version, is Jean Imbert signalling the great return of French gastronomic classicism?

With over 20,000 gold leaves lining the walls from floor to ceiling, the décor is glittering. The 12-metre-long table, crafted from unique Breccia marble, hints at the fantasy of a generous, gargantuan banquet (as does the menu, illustrated with drawings of marmitons fussing around a vintage oven). After selecting the elixirs to accompany our meal on a touch-sensitive tablet – an inappropriate touch of modernism even in times of health crisis – the feast can begin.

Puffed crepe

While the structure and elaboration of a menu remains an art in itself, the menu is short and so are the titles. It’s the tarte sablée chantilly truffée (truffled shortbread tart) that makes our eyes water; generous, gourmet, airy and intelligently escorted by an incisive lamb’s lettuce salad that contrasts with the tart’s richness. As for the vol-au-vent, served warm, it’s just as respectful of its patriotic culinary heritage as the previous starter. Like a 45 rpm record, the golden puff pastry disc, topped with languorous pieces of mushroom, crayfish, sweetbreads or poultry quenelles, reverses the trend and takes center stage. With a cheese cart as sad in terms of selection as it is in terms of presentation, the desserts of pastry duo Élisabeth Hot and Angelo Musa seduce with their sharing formula: branded love wells, flambéed soufflé crepes and ambassadors follow one another in staggered succession.

As we sip a glass of port at the end of dinner, the ideas for this story flow in an unstructured way. One question remainsthough: why so much relentlessness? Whether we like it or not, Jean Imbert unleashes passions, but there’s no need to cut off his head – the Plaza Athénée is not the Bastille. The talent is at 25 avenue Montaigne, but that’s not the point. It’s impossible to end up behind those ovens by chance, whatever the reasons for your choice. But it’s the whole experience that lacks daring, madness and freshness. Traditional French cuisine, even in its most classic style, needs to be more whimsical, fun, playful and, above all, extraordinary. The setting allows for this, and so do its protagonists! The times are already sorely lacking in craziness, and there’s no need for an outdated ceremonial panto to make us feel it even more. It’s true that we were expecting some kind of revolution… but all we got was a semblance of ebullition.