Äkta, when the real thing cooks
At Äkta, it’s a bit like going to someone’s house. You have to go through the gate, cross the small balcony on the same level, then choose whether you’d rather sit by the bar or on the lounge side. The two rooms, bathed in light thanks to their large bay windows, reveal a warm, uncluttered decor, punctuated by plants, colorful chairs and wooden tables. The atmosphere is gentle, the staff sincere and the menu particularly tempting. In fact, äkta means “true”, “sincere” and “authentic” in Swedish, a name that perfectly matches the spirit of the place.
Ceramic plate
Here, local, seasonal produce is the star of the kitchen. Everything is homemade, right down to the carefully crafted ceramic plates. At lunchtime, the starter-main course-dessert menu costs 38 francs, with a vegetarian option. In the evening, it’s time to share: a few nibbles to accompany the aperitif, cold and hot plates, then desserts.
To start, a plate of crispy rice with homemade kimchi, fermented cabbage with spicy, tangy notes. The crispness of the rice contrasts wonderfully with the tenderness of the vegetable. Braised endives then melt in the mouth, bathed in an orange juice that reveals their flavor while softening their slight bitterness. A few roasted hazelnuts add a touch of deliciousness and crunch to complete the dish.
Paprika mayonnaise
The balance of flavors continues with asparagus topped with hollandaise sauce. These are the last days of the season, and no one wants to miss this short period of time during which this vegetable graces us with its presence. Tender and delicate, they are accompanied by an airy, almost frothy hollandaise with aromatic herbs; a real treat. The last course of the tasting: a potato millefeuille served with paprika mayonnaise. The thin slices, pressed into rectangular cubes and then fried, are remarkably crisp. The lightly spiced mayonnaise adds just the right amount of deliciousness. These golden pucks are hard to get enough of.
In every plate, you can taste the raw ingredients and the care taken in combining flavors. Each ingredient is worked with precision to reveal its full character, without superfluous artifice. A sincere and masterful cuisine, which relies on simplicity to leave room for the pleasure of every mouthful. An address to return to, like returning to friends who know how to receive.
