A trip to Chez Piaf
Head to the heart of Pâquis for dinner. Plan to spend a few hours in the area, find a safe way home, and then push open the door of Chez PiafHugo de Deus’ address. In the two blue-lit rooms, 70s tunes mingle with conversation and laughter. An all-female wait staff warmly welcomes us and hands over the menu. On the menu: a light starter, a gourmet main course, dessert and a cocktail.
Perfect egg
The short but seasonal menu is packed with typical bistro fare. We start with a perfect egg, a gentle starter. Parsnip espuma, bacon chips, pan-fried mushrooms and roasted hazelnuts: it’s a no-brainer! The egg is perfectly cooked, accompanied by parsnip mousse and crunchy garnish, all in impeccable autumnal harmony. We return the immaculate plate, ready to enthusiastically welcome the rest of our meal.
The room comes alive, conversations intensify and the waitresses lead the way. The duck breast and Piaf’s winter burger arrive. The half duck breast is served with carrot purée and cumin-roasted carrot tops: a convincing and coherent sweet-savory marriage. We note, however, that the meat is slightly overcooked, no doubt due to the evening’s crowds. The burger, too, could be called a “perfect burger”: gourmet brie, truffled mayonnaise, generous meat and homemade matchstick fries make for a fine reinterpretation of a bistronomic classic.
Bambou, the speakeasy
Despite an already full appetite, we couldn’t resist dessert and shared a brioche perdue. The brioche was a little too compact, but the salted butter caramel was just right. But our experience at Piaf’s doesn’t end there: guided by the staff, we make our way through the rooms to a solid wooden cupboard. Behind its door lies Bambou, a speakeasy reminiscent of the days of Prohibition in America.
Dark walls, leather sofas, string piano, Parisian bistro tables and vintage lamps: this is Pigalle in the Roaring Twenties. Between its vinyl collection and signature cocktails inspired by Gainsbourg song titles, the change of mood is total. Our choice falls on two creations: the Sea, Sex & Sun revisits the Pornstar Martini, and the Bonnie & Clyde comes close to an Amaretto Sour. Served on a coaster bearing the effigy of the famous 500F bill, these cocktails live up to their promise. We sip our blend of amaretto, Suze and bourbon, shaken with lemon, sugar and egg white, to the sound of the 70s. A fine tribute to Gainsbourg and Paris, perfectly in tune with the world of Chez Piaf!
Our journey through time ends on a beautiful note, oscillating between the bistro atmosphere of the restaurant and the roaring twenties of the speakeasy. With Chez Piaf et Bambou, Hugo de Deus offers a vintage yet resolutely contemporary universe, supported by beautiful dishes and inspired cocktails: a timeless interlude in the heart of the Pâquis district.
