Maxime Martin, the face of Ottolenghi’s kitchens
As soon as the official date of the pre-opening dinner was announced, they all flocked to the press dinner, skilfully orchestrated by the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva. A masterful media coverage of a place that has seen the likes of Paul Bocuse, Gaston Acurio and now Yotam Ottolenghi. While the Israeli author and chef has undeniably sublimated vegetal cuisine with subtly spiced flavors, honoring Levantine traditions against a Mediterranean sunset backdrop, it’s no less obvious that his presence behind the stoves of his new Geneva address will be episodic. We don’t blame him. But that’s why it’s only fair to highlight the talent of chef Maxime Martin, somewhat overshadowed by the celebrity of the name on the front of the restaurant.
Astronomy enthusiast
We’re waiting for the man who has the onerous task of carrying Yotam Ottolenghi’s gastronomic message to lunch and dinner. Orange banquettes and a circular bar replace the fishing nets and ceviche bar of the previous tenant in this brightly lit setting. Dressed in a navy-blue kitchen jacket, the young chef wasted no time in taking part in our interview. From the outset of our conversation, he reminisces about his family Christmas dinners, when the smell of stuffed capon filled the house. Lasagne and beef Wellington are his guilty pleasures! “With a cuisine based on sharing and conviviality, I quickly found myself in Yotam Ottolenghi’s kitchen,” he says.
Maxime Martin is a go-getter, someone who follows through on ideas and reasoning. Passionate about astronomy and avid for new knowledge, he feeds his mind with animal and scientific documentaries. “The universe makes us take a step back from a lot of things. We realize the fragility of the earth and the immensity of what surrounds us. In fact, the scales are so large that our attitude must be humble in the face of this immensity”. A very personal speech, which surprised the chef himself, who was expecting to talk primarily about the Israeli chef who initiated the project.
Pure Mandarin Oriental product
Born in Strasbourg, France, Maxime Martin first learned to work as a car mechanic. Yes, you read that right; he began his career working on the assembly lines of a major French car manufacturer. The adventure didn’t last. A job as a dishwasher in a bistro in the Alsatian capital introduced him to life in the kitchen, helping out the cooks and giving him a taste for the world of stoves. “No two days are alike. As well as the technical aspects of cooking, I think the constant renewal is what appeals to me most. It’s a job that can be psychologically and physically intense. I’ve been lucky, I’ve always fallen well.
After a formative experience in Strasbourg, it was time to leave his native Alsace. Maxime headed for the south of France at Mas de Candille, before landing at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva. He had initially planned to stay for two years; today, the young chef is entering his seventh year. He is helping to open Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio’s Yakumanka restaurant, and sees this chapter in his professional life as an extremely formative and revealing experience of the unlimited possibilities of world cuisine.
Down to earth
Today, Maxime Martin is the face behind Yotam Ottolenghi’s gastronomic inspiration. “The chef’s cuisine is lively, vibrant and international. For a cook like me, it offers an almost limitless field of culinary creativity”. After being endorsed by the master himself during a visit to London, he returns to Geneva more motivated than ever. Open for several weeks now, the restaurant is, according to the hotel reception, fully booked until mid-March. We’re looking forward to discovering a place that’s already the talk of the town. But it’s certain that, despite his passion for the universe and his head in the stars, the chef on board has his feet firmly planted on the ground.
