L’Auberge du Lion d’Or: reviving a house with a heart
On the one hand, Léo Besnard, a native of central France, has worked his way up from the village bistro to the top Parisian establishments: the Intercontinental, the Pavillon Ledoyen with Yannick Alléno, the Peninsula. He has forged his high standards and versatility over a rich career spanning brasseries, Michelin-starred restaurants and palaces. Marked by his time with the Compagnons du Devoir in 2019, he has developed a philosophy based on transmission, teaching and the desire to help his teams grow. Having arrived at the Auberge du Lion d’Or in 2021, he deploys a demanding yet humane vision of the profession.
On the other, Ricardo Alves, a native of Geneva of Portuguese origin, discovered the restaurant business almost by chance, helping out in his father’s restaurant. Initially an art enthusiast, he branched out into the hotel business, gaining experience in Geneva’s finest hotels: the Richemond, La Réserve and the Four Seasons. He then joined the Auberge du Lion d’Or in 2015 as Operations Manager, working alongside chefs Dupont and Burn. There, he learned the rigors of Michelin-starred establishments, but also the importance of human relationships and listening.
An alchemy found
At the outset, their visions clashed: Ricardo knew the place and its clientele, while Léo arrived with a desire for renewal. After some fine-tuning and a great deal of discussion, a balance was struck. Today, they are moving in the same direction, with complicity and confidence. Their aim is to breathe new life into this legendary establishment, with a cuisine that is demanding yet accessible, guided by the pleasure of those who prepare it as much as those who enjoy it.
The Auberge du Lion d’Or has a soul, forged by its history and the loyalty of its customers. Known the world over, it has welcomed regulars for over 40 years. It’s this heritage that the team wants to make shine again, by analyzing the past, listening to expectations and rebalancing tradition and creativity. People are at the heart of their approach. Ricardo learned this from his mentors, like Mrs Byrne, who passed on to him the art of benevolent management.
A loyal team and a sincere approach
Some members of the team have been here for over 30 years, like Francis, who has been looking after the kitchen garden since 1996. Herbs, flowers, fruit, vegetables: everything that grows is cooked with care. Léo and his team are also inspired by wild harvesting and work closely with local suppliers. An approach that anchors cuisine in its environment.
We’re not aiming for the star at any price. “If it comes, it will be the icing on the cake. But not at the expense of people,” Léo sums up. Here, the aim is to strike a balance between rigor and pleasure, ambition and benevolence. Perhaps that’s where the success lies, in the coherence brought about by two different but united men, who are moving forward with their hearts, giving back to this historic house what it deserves: the right cuisine, sincere service, and a soul to thrill.
