A couples’ affair

Gastronomic Tempo

It’s impossible to imagine them without each other! “We’ve been working together for 12 years now. Evolving together professionally is a matter of course. We’re one and the same. Although Franck’s profile was more attractive than Sarah’s at the start of their careers, their resumes soon became more evenly matched. Customs are changing, and working in the dining room is becoming just as important as cooking. “The service profession is finally starting to be respected. In a restaurant, you can’t have one without the other, and our efficiency is part of that harmony. What we offer is us; our story, our life and our love” declares the winner of the 2019 Michelin Service and Hospitality Award.

Even though they each lead a brigade that’s won over to their cause, these two professionals know how to keep their place during the intensity of lunchtime or evening service. In these stressful moments, when communication and precision are paramount, the hierarchical title of chef is used rather than affectionate nicknames. “Depending on the moment, the line between the kitchen and the dining room is the one not to be crossed. Sarah dictates the tempo; she’s the restaurant’s metronome. It’s up to the kitchen to adapt,” Franck reminds us.

Infallible support

Head for the heights of the Jura, where the Desbraux couple treat visiting gourmets to their gourmet house in Noirmont. In 2019, they took the plunge and took over Georges Wenger’s famous house. A former disciple of the late Benoit Violier at Crissier’s Hôtel de Ville restaurant, Jérémy Desbraux is an undeniable talent. At his side since the start of the adventure is Anaëlle Roze, his unfailing support, both creatively and morally. “One thing’s for sure: I’d never have taken over the restaurant without her. It’s far too big a business for just one person” he declares from the outset. An ambitious chef who was awarded two Michelin stars and 18 GaultMillau points in his first year, Jérémy knows that his wife will give him honest and frank feedback on his work. Trained as a chef, Anaëlle is involved in the creative process of every menu change. “She guides me in my choices, gives me a framework for my day-to-day work and, if need be, gives me a new frame of reference. Her comments help me move forward every time,” he explains.

In the dining room, Anaëlle takes pleasure in getting to know her audience, made up of regulars and new diners keen to discover new things. Over time, she quickly realized that customers came as much for her husband’s cuisine as for his prowess in the dining room. “Even if they come for Jérémy’s cooking for the first time, they come back for the whole experience. They’re confident. It’s reassuring for them to know that the lady of the house is also the boss. From the outset of their adventure in Noirmont, the couple have striven to reconcile family and professional life. A balance they have learned to master over time.

Progression

Let’s keep a bit of height while changing canton and head for the Valais. A lot is happening at Le 42 restaurant in Champéry. Against all expectations, Amandine Pivault and Antoine Gonnet have announced their departure after four years of loyal service, and have taken over at Pont de Brent, the former home of Gérard Rabaey and the Décotterd couple, who have now moved to L’École Hôtelière de Glion. A change of house that marks the extraordinary career path of the current duo. ” With this takeover, we are perpetuating the spirit of our predecessors, who also worked as a couple. This is perhaps one of the most important criteria when taking over a house steeped in history.

Even if the reality of everyday life isn’t always easy, Amandine and Antoine continue to make progress, so that one can shine without overshadowing the other. Perhaps that’s the secret?