Chez Calvin, the return of the Brasserie

This is young chef Mathys Peloso’s first “real” menu. After honing his skills with Eyal Shani and Luca Ragnelli, he now takes charge of the stoves at Chez Calvin and is already imposing his brasserie-style cuisine. While vegetable dishes are elegant, with leek vinaigrette in three varieties, artichoke salad with 36-month Parmesan or pan-fried wild mushrooms served with a perfect egg and crispy mouillettes, they set the tone. As for the main courses, there’s plenty of room for signature dishes: the return of coquillettes à la truffe Calvin, a nod to childhood and a taste for sharing; eggplant Milanese au gratin, a gourmet vegetable dish; or the majestic salmon koulibiac for two, served with a beurre blanc sauce. And because conviviality here also means partying, musical evenings are making a comeback. At the turntables, Jacques Dumas promises meetings where diners, toasters and dancers all share the same energy.