I’m back once again for an unscheduled lunch with chef Yoann Caloué. What a pleasure to see that his Café des Banques is fully booked, and to see guests happy to enjoy elegant seasonal cuisine. It’s hard not to fall for the gnocchi / chestnut / stracciatella or the ravioli del plin / ricotta / black truffle. My choice – a little more reasonable – is wild sea bass and shellfish with melting, slightly crunchy roasted artichokes, a few glazed radishes and pickled cucumber strips, all served in a delicate fish nage. A distinguished marine creation… in the image of Café des Banques.

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