The stars, time and me
Edouard Amoiel
23 octobre 2025
I won’t be doing any more detailed examinations of grades or lengthy scales. Not out of disinterest or weariness, but because time is calling me elsewhere. And because by dint of writing, tasting and meeting people, I’ve come to understand that there are other ways to love cooking and to shine the spotlight on its honourable protagonists. Perhaps it’s age, maturity, or simply (re)acquaintance with a profession I respect more than anything else.
The price of consecration
The Michelin Guide is of course a wonderful distinction, a dream, a consecration for those who devote their lives to their art. It’s impossible not to be moved by Gilles Varon’s joy and tears at the announcement of his two stars. It’s hard not to be moved by the sight of Charline Pichon of Crissier’s Hôtel de Ville restaurant, already honoured by Gault&Millau, doing the double by winning the title of Sommelier of the Year.
But here’s the thing: the opacity of the guide bothers me. At a time when transparency has become a cardinal value, how can such an influential system remain so hermetic? At a time when the restaurant and catering industry is going through a fragile, sometimes even cruel, period, is the big red Bible still really in tune with those it has been judging for over a century? As far as chefs are concerned, the enthusiasm it arouses no doubt proves that the magic is still working. But does the public still believe in it? Are they still sensitive to these codes and procedures from another era? Is the guide still a reference for the younger generation?
Too much and not enough…
And then there was the ceremony, on Monday October 20, at the École Hôtelière de Lausanne, for the fourth year running. An eagerly-awaited moment, and yet… a dull, almost morose atmosphere. The show lacked the drive, panache and effervescence that naturally accompany a celebration of the hard work, sweat and dreams of an entire profession. Too many sponsors, not enough soul. Too many speeches, not enough stories.
We would have liked a little more light, a little more joy on these Lausanne heights. Because, let’s not forget, Switzerland is the most star-studded country in the world in proportion to its population. Because our terroirs, valleys, lakes and mountains abound with an exceptional culinary wealth. So, yes, let’s rejoice. Let’s hope for a breath of fresh air, a more human, lively and inspiring dynamic. Because the restaurateurs who delight us day after day deserve much better. And, in all honesty, so do you and I…
