DIVIDED PLACE
It goes without saying that dining at Yeast is a pleasant surprise, as it’s hard to expect such elaborate cuisine from such an unassuming place. Yeast is an address with two faces: a grocery store and a restaurant. The first hides a selection of wines (natural, of course) as well as a choice of cheeses and jars of all kinds. The second is a space dedicated to generous, gourmet cuisine. A few yellow tables, neither too many nor too few, in the middle of which sits a slicer ready to cut up a selection of charcuterie. Let’s slice!
PICORER
After a glass of Chenin d’Anjou, it seems obvious to start by nibbling on a few thin slices of charcuterie, a hearty pâté en croûte, not forgetting the unmissable “José Pena” sardines escorted by a homemade seaweed butter. The selection is draconian and the products are of the highest quality. You can also try a starter with grilled octopus / carrots / basil or squid / cecina / purée.
65 DEGREES
But it’s the whole pieces that really catch the eye. Dainty dishes to share, like duckling à l’orange or whole fish “according to arrival”. It’s the lamb shoulder confit from the Hautes-Alpes region that’s sure to win hearts: quickly seared and colored in a frying pan, then cooked sous-vide for 11 hours at 65 degrees with butter, garnished with garlic, thyme and rosemary. Bertrand Lutaud, the owner, puts the whole thing in the oven when you order it. Disconcertingly unctuous, the meat’s melt-in-your-mouth texture holds all its promise right up to the last forkful. It’s just a pity that there’s no nice juices to finish off a piece worthy of a great rotisserie. Accompanied by a smoky mashed potato, which unfortunately becomes far too runny in the siphon.
THE WORD OF HUNGER
Thanks to its top-quality products, Yeast is much more than just a convenience store. Carouge continues to forge its gastronomic path, and Yeast is now an integral part of the landscape.
YEAST
Bertrand Lutaud
64 rue Ancienne, 1227 Carouge
https://yeast.ch
022 342 37 61
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