Theatrical cuisine
Ever since it was confirmed that restaurant terraces would be reopened, it’s been a psychological feat to have the courage to look at the weather forecast. It was a foregone conclusion that the skies would be grey and the temperatures falling, just when we’d finally been granted permission to set foot on the (outdoor) threshold of a bistro once again. Even the weather was against our reunion with the restaurant world… that’s saying something! And yet, to finally sit down on a terrace is a solemn moment to cherish, so long awaited.
New talent
Last Tuesday, pale and parsimonious rays of sunshine graced us with their presence during lunch. With the desire to rediscover a gourmet life finally free for a meal, the choice of a certain kind of novelty was obvious, and it fell on the Grand Théâtre restaurant in Geneva, run since last October by the Gourmets Brothers team. This is the umpteenth project for serial restaurateur and indefatigable Benjamin Luzuy, who has had the merit of helping to dust off Geneva’s restaurant scene right from the start of his career.
A talent scout (remember his thunderous collaboration with the talented Benjamin Breton in the early days of Bottle Brothers), Benjamin Luzuy continues to surround himself with fork enthusiasts. The latest? Chef Jacopo Romagnoli, who joins this “dream team” of cooks after notable stints at Eleven Madison Park in New York and, closer to our shores, at the Chat-Botté restaurant in the Beau-Rivage hotel and at Philippe Chevrier’s Domaine de Châteauvieux.
Salsola Soda
Even if the menu is a little short on flair (inevitably due to health uncertainties), its composition is no less interesting. We can be sure that the kitchen team is just waiting for the necessary authorizations to unleash their talents. At first glance, it’s the vitello tonnato that catches the eye, as if on a transalpine journey to the heart of the City of Calvin. Slowly cooked at a low temperature, the veal is superbly tender, escorted by a generous tuna cream and enhanced by an Italian mustard made with candied fruit. The crispy chicken supreme is just as assertive as the starter. Accompanied by perfectly al-dente asparagus and monk’s beard (a crunchy leafy vegetable also known as salsola soda or agretti), the dish’s balance is further enhanced by its thick yellow wine sauce.
Needless to say, the magic is working… at least on the plate and even outside. It’s hard to recreate a sense of identity when you’re married to a cultural behemoth like the Grand Théâtre. And yet, without too much fuss, with a hint of naturalness and a hefty dose of professional knowledge, the Café de la Plage has succeeded. Not necessarily to take us to the tropics, but at least to allow us to stroll and dream… for a few moments. And that, in this day and age, is a feat in itself!
