The return of the decanter
Luca Ragnelli lives again! After a two-year health crisis, he’s back at work with the same passion and pleasure as when he started. He twirls between the tables of his pocket-sized restaurant on rue des Eaux-Vives. Does it take a breakdown like a health crisis to rebuild the foundations of a business? Maybe… who knows? In any case, it’s good to see Luca Ragnelli so euphoric and serene. Even if the decor has remained the same, the atmosphere is different in this little neighborhood bistro where transalpine cuisine takes pride of place. Something has changed… for the better. A je ne sais quoi of gaiety mingled with a hint of fantasy, all with the aim of waking the sleeping beauty of sleeping wood.
Edouard Amoiel
Italy uninhibited
The Decanter is a great place to live, and an intoxicating feeling can be felt. In the kitchen, Luca Ragnelli enlists the services of talented chef Francesco Mauri. Having worked in the kitchens ofOsteria della Bottega and Eat Me, he raises the culinary bar with modern interpretations of Italian classics. With an insolent decomplexion, his creations are as daring as they are flamboyant. The map is short, as the times demand, and so much the better. There’s no need for lengthy and pointless elucidations that risk leading guests into the trap of risky choices.
While remaining true to a generous approach to Italian cuisine, the gastronomic break with the past is clear. Of course, the aperitif plank remains, but it is no longer the center of culinary attraction. The first bite of a crunchy scacciata (Sicilian stuffed bread) with chestnut honey and rabbit mousse sets the tone. Let us be seduced by a low-temperature-cooked Norwegian sea trout, accompanied by a coleslaw-style fennel salad with fennel cream and licorice powder. A subtle and surprising introduction. The rack of pork, languorously cooked for 9 hours, is escorted by a mozzarella mousse (not necessarily useful) and artichoke cream, topped with a few dashes of balsamic vinegar reduction.
Edouard Amoiel
Mezze Maniche
Pasta is given pride of place with homemade fettuccine and rabbit ragout. But it’s the Mezze Maniche, perfectly al dente, that win all the gourmet awards. Subtly spiced with a few bouchot mussels, buratta and fermented lemon, this dish is a real crowd-pleaser. Every bite is balanced and gourmet. A success that triggers the order of a second plate.
A new culinary impetus is blowing through Le Décanteur, and young chef Francesco Mauri has many surprises in store for us. With other projects on the go, Luca Ragnelli can rub his hands with pride. His restaurant achieves a balance between a pronounced and assertive culinary identity and a cheerful, relaxed service. Even if the road to consistency is a long one, there’s no doubt that the nights at Le Décanteur promise to be brilliant.
