The gourmet watchmaker
Dressed in a kitchen jacket and immaculate white apron, Dominique Gauthier emerges from his kitchen at the start of lunchtime service, looking cheerful, with a tanned complexion and an engaging smile. Diners flock to (re)discover this restaurant that had its moment of glory for many years, renowned for its entrecôte steak with secretly guarded sauce, French fries and green salad. The former chef of Le Chat-Botté, the gastronomic restaurant of the Beau-Rivage Hotel, is delighted to have moved to a different shore, and even seems to have rediscovered his panache, his ardor and a sparkle in his eyes that is unmistakable.
Winegrowing approach
This chef has always been part of Geneva’s gastronomic scene, but all it took was a change of bank to really find him. It was surely time for him to reinvent himself, and the opportunity to take over the kitchens at 47 rue du Rhône was too good to pass up. It’s not without emotion that the reunion with this place steeped in history brings back memories of his youth. In a new setting, with wood-panelled walls, more widely-spaced tablecloths and large paintings depicting watchmaking complications, we take our place in the F.P.Journe restaurant.
Barely a few weeks after opening, the team in place gives the impression of having always been there. With Pascal Brault as master of ceremonies in the dining room and Tand Bogdan as sommelier, nothing is left to chance. Neither too present, nor too aloof… these service professionals are already making a difference. The wine list, made up of Bordeaux labels and some of the great Burgundy names, also features a bevy of regional and international estates. A welcome addition to the wine list when you consider the prices charged by some establishments on the Right Bank.
Truffled poultry
Combining classicism, tradition and a touch of modernity, Dominique Gauthier delivers a gastronomic score of the highest order. The chef’s craftsmanship shines through without overdoing it. While we find the unavoidable scampi roasted in kadaïf, citrus and basil, the runny-core egg from La Ferme du Lignon, accompanied by a few chanterelles, delights our taste buds, fittingly linking the last autumn leaves with the first flakes of winter. Without hesitation, the knife delicately cuts into the truffled poultry from the Domaine du Nant d’Avril and its potato mille-feuilles. A tasty moment that confirms the chef’s savoir-faire.
Dominique Gauthier is back. We have to admit, we’ve missed his cuisine! A cuisine of the heart – classic, to be sure – always prepared in accordance with the rules of the art, and which has finally found its place and taken flight in the heart of our beautiful city of Calvin. At his side is a seasoned brigade. While a fiery, uninhibited youth pushes at the creative door, the chef is not about to leave us or rest on his laurels. And that’s a good thing!
