The eminent Paillereau
Chef Romain Paillereau and his team are back at work, more passionate and committed than ever. The former boss of the Pinte des Mossettes kitchens may be hiding his smile behind an imposing beard, but he’s no less pleased to be back at work stirring his pots after a short summer break. With its new, beautiful setting and modern décor, it’s a far cry from the wooded mountain environment of his previous establishment. A radical change that testifies to his desire to pursue a luminous path towards other gastronomic horizons.
Edouard Amoiel
Eggplant caviar
Romain Paillereau sets the tone right from the first amuse-bouches. A trilogy of happiness composed of a hogweed cream and a few artichoke pickles topped with a bricelet, a seaweed meringue with veal tartar and the essential crispy chicken skin, sesame and lime. An enchanting wave of precision and technical skill. There’s no doubt about it: the commitment is clear and the gourmandise very present… in just a few bites. The seventh menu (which changes every 5 weeks) takes off with the first eggplant dish. The starter, composed of lightly smoked eggplant caviar, creamy serac with Espelette pepper gel and eggplant ice cream, is striking in its gourmet originality. Let’s continue.
The Brittany lobster is delicate and refined. Accompanied by crunchy tapioka chips, it’s the two sauces that are most intriguing for their powerful concentration of flavors. All you have to do is delicately cut a piece of shellfish (perfectly cooked) and top it with a lobster bisque or a green zebra tomato compote. Two clashing worlds, two perfectly successful pairings. Let’s remain immersed in the sea with the elegant half-cooked yellowtail and its creamy grilled zucchini, served with a wonderful sauce inspired by bouillabaisse. This creation would not be complete without a crunchy tuile with yuzu gel, adding the citrus touch that the chef loves so much.
Edouard Amoiel
Béarnaise with orange
As gastronomy progresses through the ages, beef tenderloin as a pièce de résistance seems to have fallen out of favor, either because of a sense of déjà-vu or a lack of originality. And yet, at Romain Paillereau’s, the piece of roasted meat and its creamy anchovy sauce, escorted by celery remoulade, a buckwheat tuile, an orange béarnaise (a passion for citrus) and a lightly-bodied jus, reflect all the modernity of this savory epilogue. Despite its classic title, the dish is very much in tune with the times.
While the sweet score features fennel, tarragon and lemon before giving way to raspberries, fresh tomme and piquillos, it’s over a last tear of Chardonnay that we contemplate the work accomplished by an undeniably talented team around a meticulous and assiduous conductor. A special mention must go to the wait staff, led by Pauline Schohn, who offer the most efficient service. Romain Paillereau makes his comeback with panache. What a pleasure and an honor to be able to follow the career of this discreet and humble chef. Happy trails…
Restaurant des Trois Tours, 15 route de Bourguillon, 1722 Bourguillon. Phone +41 26 322 30 69
