Summit Inn
Taking to the road is often one of the joys of gastronomy. A forced wait that allows us to wander until the promise of an unforgettable moment, an uncontrollable delight as we approach a restaurant. It’s hard not to be tempted to look for some semblance of a menu by browsing a website beforehand. Such a mistake! Happiness is so much more intense when it’s unexpected. It’s as we drive along the winding road, leaving Lake Annecy below, that our hearts begin to race. The Auberge de Montmin is just a few bends away… we’re there.
Edouard Amoiel
Kitchen house
Humbly entitled “maison de cuisine” by its owners, Sandrine and Florian Favario’s auberge is a little house on the prairie, at once modern and rustic, pampered down to the smallest detail. While some gourmet restaurants impress and intimidate, not because of their décor, but often because of the condescension of the wait staff, Sandrine Favario makes it a point of honor to take her guests by the hand and lead them into her husband’s culinary skies. As the fire crackles in the fireplace, reminiscent of the Alpine environment, let’s allow ourselves to be seduced by this restaurant, which continues its exceptional gastronomic ascent.
The atmosphere is serene and calm, and will remain so throughout the meal. Like a Japanese chef, Florian Favario takes center stage behind his counter. Every gesture is calculated, every movement anticipated, and nothing is left to chance. The mere expression of his gaze in the direction of the room makes it clear that this outstanding chef is watching over everything, without a word, without a sound. Everything that comes out of the kitchen goes through him; he assembles, juxtaposes, composes and seasons with the utmost discretion. While many of his colleagues are constantly wandering outside their kitchens, Éric Fréchon’s former sous-chef never leaves his own.
Edouard Amoiel
Truffles always
With the traditional amuse-bouches as a preamble to a black truffle-based menu, the chef immediately announces his gastronomic ambitions. Without showing any ostentatious creativity, he introduces a beautiful score: salted veal, potato croissant with truffle, croque-monsieur with truffle and Savoy cake with smoked bacon, onion confit and beaufort. The meal takes off with the mushroom broth and steamed brioche encasing the black diamond.
Served in dishes specially designed by the couple, the farm egg and its truffled mouillette with semi-salted butter kick off the festivities. The next sequence is a tribute to celeriac, the chef’s favorite vegetable, offered in different textures: roasted, puréed and crunchy strips. All accompanied by a truffle emulsion and meat jus. An earthy dish in all its splendor! The beechwood-smoked potato with pike-egg sabayon is a revelation that will live long in the memory; served with a crudité of féra du Léman with pike eggs, dried and smoked like bottarga. This is the only dish that does not contain truffles, but it reveals all of Florian Favario’s ingenuity.
Edouard Amoiel
Indisputable talent
The chef places the latest savory creations in the middle of the table, producing a veritable firework display of flavors. The free-range poultry is cooked at low temperature in vin jaune and accompanied by its royal blond liver ; the poultry thighs are grilled over embers, the root vegetables are cut into sticks, the magnificent gourmet onion is caramelized and the celery and truffle mille-feuilles make a comeback. Majestic!
The cheese is a tribute to fondue, while the dessert is an enchanting chocolate journey. And so the story of this incredible day comes to an unhappy end. What an epic! What a joy to see so much freedom and humility in the same house. Florian Favario’s pure talent is unquestionably evident, and Sandrine’s gentleness and kindness a rarity. Long live L’Auberge de Montmin and see you (very, very, very) soon!
