Shabour, mon amour

Shabour, mon amour

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

05 octobre 2021

Opened with great fanfare just before the health crisis, the Shabour restaurant in Paris is a hymn to Israeli and Mediterranean cuisine. A modern, daring version.

With today’s technology, making a reservation at a Parisian restaurant is a real obstacle course. Anything can happen if the sesame is not confirmed by a bank imprint followed by a phone call a few hours before the meal. It’s a tedious process, but a necessary one to combat the scourge of “no-shows” due to the lack of education on the part of some customers (especially in times of health crisis, when the restaurant world needs a full house more than ever).   

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

Micmac

Arriving at Shabour with the certainty of having a reservation quickly becomes a disillusion when it hasn’t been entered into the computer system. With barely twenty seats around a counter that encircles a tiny, bustling kitchen, the restaurant is overcrowded for both services. A heavy atmosphere sets in. What’s to be done? Whose fault is it? The most annoying thing is that the most sought-after seats – those around the counter, the lungs of the Israeli-inspired restaurant whose theatrical animation is well worth the detour – are all occupied. But that’s without counting on the elegance and professionalism of Joséphine Chaulet, the restaurant manager, who, with a wave of her magic wand, repaired an unpleasant situation for both parties and found us a table… in front of the window. We’ll do without the show in the kitchen, but we’re seated, and that’s what counts in the end!

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

Break

Rosé champagne is immediately served in a magnificent vintage crystal glass, in stark contrast to the untouched décor of this small establishment in the heart of Paris’s second arrondissement. By way of a gourmet prelude, the focus is on cultural diversity. Shabour breaks down gastronomic stereotypes – hence the origin of the name “casser” in Hebrew – and preconceived culinary ideas. Another idea of gourmet travel… By way of appetizers, it all starts with a stroll through Jerusalem with a chakchouka candy, a  gefilte fish with carrot and caviar purée, and atayef with foie gras, pistachio and rose.

A reinterpretation of clafouti flavored with maschia (nutmeg bark), laid on a tile of tanzia (a mixture of walnuts and raisins), sprinkled with a few fennel seeds, kicks off the festival before giving way to langoustine and mussels in arak served in a matbucha consommé. The soft-boiled egg with its tahini foam, onion relish, bottarga and salmon roe are must-tries. To be enjoyed to our heart’s content, while dipping in a piece of still-warm braid! Divine! The unstructured Borsch, accompanied by vodka-steamed lobster, glazed beet, horseradish-feta cream and dill oil, maintains the level of originality and indulgence.

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

A bright future

After the surprising artichoke vinaigrette dessert with ras el hanout crumble, the conclusion is clear: Shabour is a no-holds-barred UFO in the Parisian food galaxy. A culinary delight in this autumnal revival that confirms the strength of the French gastronomic scene. With a young generation free of any form of classicism, extremely well trained in the trade and with an irreproachable knowledge of products, Shabour has a bright future ahead of it.