Prévelle, the return of Romain Meder
Social networks were already abuzz when the first work was announced. Who would have thought it? Romain Meder back in Paris! This leader of the “naturalness” era of the great Alain Ducasse at the Plaza-Athénée has (finally) opened his own home… and right in the heart of the French capital. Just a stone’s throw from the Assemblée Nationale and next door to the Invalides, this new gastronomic showcase promises an adventure as sensitive as it is sincere, in the image of a humble, discreet man of rare culinary delicacy.
Gastronomic showcase
We had already painted a portrait of the man who ran the ovens at the Plaza before Alain Ducasse handed over to a certain… Jean Imbert. What a strange time when you think about it. Romaine Meder surprised us with her calm, soft-spoken manner and candor. Qualifications diametrically opposed to the temperaments of some of the temperamental chefs behind the ovens of the Ducasse galaxy.
We meet him again, years later, almost embarrassed, still with the same smile, expressing himself calmly. He’s finally at home, and deserves every inch of this new two-storey culinary showcase. A world away from his former establishment on Avenue Montaigne,
Poultry cooked in brioche
While oysters are used as condiments in this second sequence, lacto-fermented carrots are used in a pan-fried dish of mousserons, pasta and peas in their own juice to add crunch and freshness. A confusing jumble! Is Romain Meder trying to confuse the issue? Poultry baked in brioche with foie gras jus features crunchy, candied fennel julienne, accompanied by a mustard emulsified sauce and a full-bodied squid ink sauce. Stunning!
We came away from our lunch a little disorientated. The question then arises: are we ready to receive so much information in this high-flying gastronomic explosion? It’s up to us to play our part as extras in this opus, but are we in a position to understand it? From a creative point of view, Romain Meder’s score is a real commitment. His cuisine is unlike any other, and like no one else’s. Isn’t the feat of creating one’s own style the dream of every chef? The dream is out there… it’s up to us to try to enter it and live it!
