Philippe Chevrier, the master of Swiss cuisine
For over three decades, Domaine de Châteauvieux has dominated the Geneva countryside. With phlegm and passion, but without ostentation, this jewel of elegance has weathered fashions and trends.
On board, renowned chef Philippe Chevrier and his faithful companions, Damien Coche behind the stoves and Esteban Valle in the dining room, continue to stage a gourmet, inventive and devilishly generous cuisine.
Nestled on the heights of Satigny, just a stone’s throw from the town center, this haven of peace overlooks the heart of Geneva’s vineyards, its vines stripped bare by the latest harvest. While the peaks of the Jura are covered by a first film of snow, each upcoming culinary season is rich in gourmet delights.
Mushrooms have pride of place in autumn, black truffles and a menu dedicated entirely to them are a must in winter, asparagus and morels herald a vegetable-filled spring, while summer is synonymous with lightness, with lake crayfish that can be enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the Geneva countryside.
The restaurant’s dining room has just been updated with finesse and subtlety, while retaining the establishment’s warm, relaxed atmosphere. A few modern touches inspired by the latest contemporary influences have been added.
“We challenge ourselves every day, and this house is constantly evolving. Our customers love it, because it’s part of their history,” says the chef.
The chef retains the classics that have contributed to the restaurant’s renown, while offering contemporary cuisine. The symphony begins with scarlet shrimp, cooked a la plancha, on a bed of parsnips, roasted hazelnuts, escorted by a few slices of Alba truffles. The novelty comes from the marbled pollack, previously marinated in beet, steamed and served with a raspberry vinegar emulsion.
It’s impossible to resist Scottish grouse: the supremes cooked at a low temperature, the confit and crumbled legs stuffed into a cromesquis or the giblets topped with toast and candied figs are a gourmet anthem. All served with a vegetable broth and quail egg. As for the venison fillet, it’s roasted, accompanied by a pear poached in red wine and spices, a few horns of plenty and mashed sweet potatoes.
For those with a sweet tooth, the pastry chef offers caramelized butternut squash, combined with the freshness of sorbet and orange parfait.
Philippe Chevrier: meet the Genevan chef
Who are you Philippe Chevrier?
I was born in Geneva and am the youngest of three boys. I never had any doubts about becoming a chef. My chef d’apprentissage de cuisine, meilleur ouvrier de France, started me off with three months as a dishwasher. With no other choice, I learned the trade the hard way!
I became owner of Domaine de Châteauvieux in 1986 and have never left. While running a 200-seat steak house and numerous bistros around the canton, my mothership remains in Satigny. I’m deeply attached to this place.
What does Swiss terroir mean to you?
A land rich in products and wines. There’s great diversity in our country. While we have our own identity, we have been inspired by neighboring regions, whether French, Italian or German. We have mountains and cheeses, lakes and fish, fields and vegetables in every season. We’re incredibly lucky to have such an eclectic mix of cultures linked to the land. Our craftsmanship and know-how make all the difference. Thanks to our proximity to winegrowing, our culture and our respect for the product, we’ve become an essential gourmet destination.
Tell us about Swiss vineyards.
It’s never been so fabulous. Whether it’s the Chardonnays from Dardagny in the canton of Geneva, the Chasselas from the canton of Vaud, the Syrahs from the canton of Valais or the Pinot Noirs from Grisons in German-speaking Switzerland, we are truly spoiled with a vineyard of true quality. As a Genevan, I really appreciate Gamaret. Very rich in fruit with an extraordinary color, it’s a grape variety I adore.
Products of choice?
I love féra, but I prefer Arctic char with crayfish from Lake Geneva. These are fabulous fish, both in terms of finesse and nobility. I’m a big fan of cutting fish indoors. It’s a pity that this practice is being lost, as customers are always enthusiastic to watch a hare à la royale being prepared or a crêpe flambé being demonstrated.
Which way is your kitchen heading?
I want to keep my cuisine gourmet, bourgeois and generous. Culinary classicism suits me well. I like whole pieces, giving pride of place to the product without distorting it too much. The real star of a restaurant is the product. I’m a fervent advocate of beauty, with no concessions on quality. It’s all about the texture and flavor of the food.
