Ottolenghi invites himself to the city of Calvin
Le Mandarin Oriental is now home to Yotam Ottolenghi’s first restaurant outside London, with talented chef Maxime Martin at the helm. From the moment you arrive, the service is attentive and ready to do its utmost to ensure that your experience goes as smoothly as possible. The room, bathed in light, plays on light tones and soft, rounded mineral shapes, reminiscent of polished pebbles on a sandy beach. At its center is an elegant oval bar, animated by a mixologist in action. To one side, an open, black kitchen contrasts with the rest, allowing guests to admire the cooks’ ball.
Mediterranean influences
For aperitifs, we recommend the Pumpkin Mule, a signature cocktail with autumnal flavors, but it’s the Virgin Spritz and Roses version, with its promise of summer freshness, that wins the day. Unsurprisingly, anyone with an unconditional love of the Spritz will be seduced by this new version with its subtle rose flavor, delicately sublimated by a blackcurrant jam.
As for the dishes, Mediterranean and Oriental influences come together in a convivial atmosphere, offering several sharing possibilities where even vegetarians will be spoiled. Grilled halloumi is topped with black lemon honey and a herbed condiment that perfectly balances the salinity of the cheese. Grilled artichoke sits atop a delicious walnut tarator, a Middle Eastern sauce between hummus and tzatzíki, magnified by a condiment that creates a complex and successful marriage between all the elements.
Surprising mushrooms
Kimchi and Gruyère cheese combine perfectly to form fritters that are crispy on the outside and melt-in-the-mouth on the inside. The shawarma contains celery root and bkeila, a spinach-based condiment, in a pita, though it’s a little too discreet. A tasty sauce with fermented tomatoes and chili peppers adds intensity to the whole dish, which should not be missed.
More confusing, the grilled mushroom dish is substantial and self-assembling. While the yoghurt sauce and green chili condiment are perfectly executed, the shyness of the spices on the vegetables, the pickles and the hard-to-chew mushrooms may not be to everyone’s taste. A better description on the menu would be welcome to avoid certain surprises.
Overall, Ottolenghi’s signature is very much in evidence: the flavor combinations are just right and full of potential. But in Geneva, the ensemble is still a little too wise, whereas it’s time to dare, to let the flavors explode, to shake things up and seduce with bold, powerful and unforgettable combinations.
