Neo Caloué
But what is a new bistro or a neo-bistro? Let’s look for the modern meaning of the word that allows a chef to requalify the unspeakable. From its etymological origin – “neo” from the ancient Greek meaning new – we can establish that neo-bistrot qualifies as a “new bistro”. This expression would therefore imply that some bistros are new and others old. But a bistro is still a bistro! And a gastro is still a gastro! But back to our knives. Is Yoann Caloué now adopting the bistro style? So let’s take it from the top and enjoy some canaille dishes, open some wonderful bottles and share a sweet moment of gastronomy in the starred chef’s new gourmet lair.
Edouard Amoiel
Culinary medley
For those who don’t keep up with Geneva culinary news, Yoann Caloué announced his departure from Le Flacon restaurant last September, after 10 years of loyal service. It was a small earthquake that shook and surprised the hushed milieu of Calvin’s food scene. Dressed in the black leather perfecto that has stuck to his skin since he left Sardinia, he took to the streets of Geneva in search of the perfect arcade. Since November 1, he has found it in the chic yet quiet banking district.
But be warned, his new Geneva setting is not yet the exact reflection of his future gastronomic restaurant, as work is scheduled for early next year. In the meantime, Yoann Caloué offers us a culinary best-off in a setting that is not yet his own. To tide us over until the official opening in 2022, it’s under the title signature dishes that include more than a dozen of the shareable classics that have won him a devoted following over the past decade.
Edouard Amoiel
Letting go
Marinated sea bream, 62-degree egg, gnocchi and burrata, porcini gyozas and the inevitable chocolate dessert are all on the menu. Even if there’s nothing new to report, it’s a real pleasure to take a break and rediscover the kind, comforting cuisine worthy of his talent. His approach in his new restaurant is full of common sense: take possession of the place, master his automatisms, find his clientele and ensure with mastered dishes. Why rush things when there are structural changes to come ? But we can’t wait to see what the Michelin-starred chef has in store for us, because, needless to say, he’s got a lot to tempt and surprise us.
Whatever the case, it’s great to be back in this bright, welcoming arcade, which for so long captured the hearts of gourmets before quietly fading into oblivion. With Yoann Caloué on board, the Café des Banques begins a new chapter in its history, and promises to be full of surprises. Like a singer who reprises his famous tunes at the end of a concert, Yoann Caloué plays a score of culinary hits and has the originality to perform his best-known pieces at the start of a new tour.
