L’Auberge d’Hermance, a timeless interlude
Housed in a 19th-century manor house, theAuberge d’Hermance retains all the charm of a period residence: original earthenware, exposed woodwork, a quiet outdoor patio planted with trees… A unique setting that seems frozen in time. The establishment is masterfully run by the discreet founder Franz Wehren, who has been with the company since 1981 and is a key figure in its history.
Middle-class house
In summer, the sun-drenched, flower-filled terrace is reminiscent of Tuscany. In autumn, we retreat indoors to enjoy a fireside meal in a warm, bourgeois atmosphere. Over the decades, chefs have come and gone, but one guiding principle has endured: to preserve the flavors of yesteryear and the emblematic dishes that have made the establishment’s reputation. The salt-crusted chicken, a true monument of the menu, has never left the menu since it opened.
As a prelude, the house starts the ball rolling with a cauliflower velouté enriched with a powerful poultry broth, which structures the taste and reveals its nuances. Alongside, a toast topped with an avocado cream with mint and yuzu adds a well-executed touch of freshness, although we would have preferred a mushroom mousse, more in keeping with the season.
Gathering and hunting
For starters, sautéed porcini mushrooms topped with pan-fried foie gras seduce with their generosity: the mushrooms are soft throughout, perfectly browned, and the foie gras adds a lovely richness to the whole. Next, it’s impossible to resist the hunter’s pie, proudly displayed in the dining room and executed with care and precision.
Next, the saddle of venison arrives on the table, accompanied by its classic garnish: spätzli, cranberries, grand veneur sauce, chestnuts and celery purée. If the whole is just right, some superfluous elements disrupt the score: the cherry tomato seems out of place, while the broccoli and carrots seem too bland. Glazed carrots would have added coherence and relief.
By the fire
To round off this Sunday lunch, we serve a melting, caramelized tarte tatin, warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. By the fireside, in this inn where time seems suspended, we savor the moment to the full, before heading back to the city. A timeless interlude, where tradition continues to shine with discretion and elegance.
