Gourmet coffee
Under a sunset backdrop worthy of a Claude Monnet painting, we previously caught a glimpse of chef Yoann Caloué under the lens of photographers on the rooftops of a building. A few months later, we saw him (still) in a photo perched above the front of his new gourmet stronghold Café des Banques, wearing his chef’s jacket. Today, we’re delighted to find him back with his feet firmly on the ground, behind brand-new stoves. What’s in store for this talented chef, who held Le Flacon in Carouge with a master’s hand for a decade? Let’s find out…
Edouard Amoiel
Leading trio
He had been waiting patiently for the opening of his new restaurant for a long time. In the space of just a few years, this endearing, unassuming character has built up a fine reputation in Geneva’s gastronomic world. Although he shows no particular signs of stress behind his apparent shell, he knows that expectations are high on the part of a clientele always eager to try something new! With an unfailing casualness, the chef – tucked away behind an imposing and magnificent table d’hôtes that can seat a dozen guests – recites his culinary scales with ease, maintaining an approach based on generous, gourmet gastronomy. The menu features cep gyozas, yellow wine, peas and Etivaz, black cod, artichoke, tomato and chorizo, and the indestructible chocolate dessert… a trio that never seems to leave the chef’s menu.
The (last) white asparagus with lacquered octopus, chanterelles and a languorous sabayon opens the ball. The crunchiness of the asparagus contrasts with the tenderness and softness of the mollusc. A syrupy, slightly acidic cooking juice enhances the creaminess of the sabayon. A fine introduction for the chef and his brigade. The red mullet also confirms the establishment’s good start. The crisp-skinned, tender fish is accompanied by cucumber pickles and, above all, a generous stuffed zucchini flower. A real treat!
Edouard Amoiel
First score
As we all know, Yoann Caloué is an excellent cook. In his new culinary showcase, he has everything in hand (and in his chef’s hat) to turn his customers’ heads. His first score shows great promise for the future. A fair and reasonable choice! However, we expect the chef to soon compose even crazier and more committed opuses…without, of course, abandoning his culinary identity. We’re delighted with this new establishment on Rue de Hesse. We can’t wait to return and follow the adventure.
