First second
David Devel is only a minute late for our interview, but apologizes for not being on time. The time precision of this talented chef reflects the high standards he sets himself every day for his profession. Highly motivated yet calm and collected, he finally rekindles the flame in the ovens of the hotel’s gourmet restaurant President Wilson to his great delight. “It’s about time,” he admits, before continuing, “Even if the health crisis has allowed me to enjoy my family, I’m very happy to have found my way back to the world of toques. It feels so good to hear the stirring of pots and pans, and to see order forms piling up on the kitchen counter.
Lenaka
Culinary fulfilment
Proudly displaying his immaculate white jacket and the traditional scarf tied around his neck worn by French cooks (a practice abandoned over time in favor of multicolored caps and bandanas), David Devel is a true professional chef in every sense of the word. A chef who, above all, respects the product. A chef who prepares sauces, juices and broths with conviction and passion in a way that is almost unheard of in the profession. A chef who masters his cooking with precision and meticulousness, like a watchmaker constantly striving to perfect a mechanism. For him, the pursuit of pleasure inevitably goes hand in hand with fulfillment in the kitchen. “As with any other profession, if you don’t enjoy cooking, you might as well change career direction. At the end of the day, your guests will feel it on the plate. A dish is the extension of a multitude of feelings.
Fortunately for us, Guy Savoy’s former disciple is more fulfilled than ever, and eager to let his palette of tastes express itself freely. Like this fine porcini tartlet, which reveals all the chef’s savoir-faire. Note that this dish is a creative partnership with the owner : Michel Roth is the instigator and David Devel the creator. A remarkable starter that combines the traditional recipe of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France with the creativity of the Champion de France des Olympiades des Métiers.
Lenaka
While the porcini mushrooms are confit in duck fat and then arranged on orange shortbread, a duck jus à la cazette is delicately poured over the mushrooms. The magic of the duo is apparent from the very first bite. This autumnal symphony is followed by a second intermission, again around a carpaccio of ceps, secretly revealed under the same plate, accompanied by a parsley sauce that prolongs the gourmet moment. “Our creativity remains highly participative. Everyone in the team has something to say. Overall, our philosophy is to evolve our cuisine without revolutionizing it,” says David Devel.
Temple guardian
Without any misunderstanding or desire for superiority, the Bayview tandem admires each other and works wonderfully well together. While Michel Roth’s presence in the hotel’s corridors demands respect, his visits to the hotel are not met with rigid, disciplined attention. It’s the passion for cooking that drives the two protagonists. There’s no doubt that they operate in the same culinary time zone, and the gastronomic score continues its gentle evolution. In the early days of the hunting season, David Devel accentuates his gourmet savoir-faire and seduces the public with his traditionally generous cuisine. The filet and rib of venison matured with 3 peppers, lightly smoked, are a tender delicacy in this autumnal wave. But it’s the unmissable hare à la Royale that’s sure to capture the hearts of enthusiasts. Unusually paired with a sweet wine, the association is a sweet moment of delectation.
There’s no doubt about it, the pair have mastered their craft without becoming creatively monotonous. Even if some dishes have become classics over the years, David Devel keeps a close eye on them, giving free rein to his imagination according to seasonal arrivals. It’s high time to let yourself be carried away by a duo in full creative bloom…
