Coincoin: Happiness on the Menu
How about we start the week with a menu? A few appetizers, a few main courses created by a young chef—and then there’s that delightful dilemma: choosing. Let’s head to Coincoin. The spot we love so much, at the corner of Rue des Bains and Boulevard Carl-Vogt, has changed hands. Loris Vial, who also runs Safre in the banking district, has taken the reins. The place retains what makes it so charming: plenty of light, a youthful decor, and a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Maxime Guilloud, a graduate of the École du Bologne who previously worked at Safre, is in the dining room. In the kitchen, Livio Paroldi gives this neighborhood bistro yet another reason to linger.
Delicious Titles
At lunchtime, the menu changes every week. This offering is sure to appeal at a time when the “dish of the day” is becoming increasingly rare. But before we even talk about the price, we need to talk about desire. I hesitated for a long time. A tartare of line-caught sea bream, cucumber, and shiso? A beef tongue terrine with gribiche sauce, nodding to classic bistro fare? I usually make up my mind pretty quickly, but I reread the menu items several times.
I finally opted for an arancini stuffed with chopped morels, served with a herb and Parmesan sauce. This Italian classic—crispy on the outside and tender on the inside—was given a new twist by the chef. It completely won me over! That’s a strong word, I know, but I stand by it!
Tuna with Tonnato Sauce
Next, my dining companion chose the zucchini stuffed with ratatouille, served with polenta sticks. I was torn between the veal breast with broccoli and satay sauce and the white tuna with tonnato sauce. I decided on the fish, which was cooked to perfection—tender and flaky at the center—and didn’t hesitate to dip the straw-cut potatoes into the sauce, savoring every bite with obvious delight. It was indulgent, perfectly executed, and truly a joy.
We shared a clafoutis made with mirabelle plums infused with Chartreuse. The batter was a bit thick, but that in no way detracted from the pleasure of the lunch or the impression left by Livio Paroldi’s cuisine: inventive, original, yet still incredibly indulgent. Hold on to your hats: this menu costs 40 francs. For a lunch of this quality, it’s a great deal—rare enough to be worth highlighting. I left delighted, already curious to experience Coincoin in the evening, in what will no doubt be a more intimate atmosphere. Something special is happening at this spot. I’m already eager to go back.
