BRUNO VERJUS: A PASSIONATE CHEF
Despite an irritating start to the meal, Chef Bruno Verjus charms us with his elegant, gourmet cuisine.
ECOSSAIS REASON
It goes without saying that dining at Bruno Verjus’s is a real treat. This truculent character knows how to welcome his guests. Proudly wearing his legendary tartan pants, this former journalist, product magician and rotisserie king has a generous soul and plate. In his restaurant, the counter is the main feature; its location, almost entirely opposite the kitchen, encourages proximity and exchange. Conversation is the order of the day, and there’s plenty of eye contact between diners and chefs: welcome to the Verjus theater.
DÉBUT DÉLICAT
It’s always unpleasant to lose your bearings. The absence of a wine list is destabilizing, both in terms of choice and price. It’s all the more disturbing that to make such a remark is to be scorned by a member of the wait staff. The attitude to adopt is not to enter into conflict, and certainly not before the meal. A glass of white wine quickly reconciles the protagonists and extinguishes any potential fire. Having indicated a regional preference and a budget, let’s move on to the table.
SAUCIER EXTRAORDINAIRE
As an appetizer, Souprosse duck foie gras makes a remarkable entrance, followed by Sologne chanterelles: generously served, sautéed in the blink of an eye and combined with strips of pig’s ear, a few mirabelles, a guinea fowl egg yolk osmosed with seawater and a poultry jus court, the result is exceptional! An ultra-gourmet, suave starter, surprisingly sensible, that rounds off an intense moment. The Limousin milk-fed veal will be remembered as one of the best dishes of the year. Infused with aromatic herbs and roasted “patiently” on a spit, this delicate dish is intelligently escorted by a meat jus and a creamy lobster head.
THE WORD OF HUNGER
Let’s get past the somewhat surprising start and into the kitchen of a highly talented chef.
