Bologna: a legacy of consistency
Has everything really been said about Le Bologne ? You’d think so, since this Geneva restaurant has long held a special place in the hearts of gourmets. And yet, as time goes by, nothing seems to dim its radiance. On the contrary: its longevity is impressive, of course, but it’s above all this consistency, this mastered inventiveness, this talent for evolving without ever renouncing the bistro soul that drives it, that continues to fascinate.
Celery risotto
In the dining room, the team led by Hans Chobert delivers service of a rare precision… precise, elegant, without being excessive, just discreet and unobtrusive. New faces have joined the adventure, injecting their energy without altering the harmony so characteristic of the place. Here, we don’t serve: we welcome, we accompany, we watch over.
And then there’s that dish. The one you think you know, the one you think you’ve tamed until it hits you again. Believe it or not, it took me years to give in to the temptation of celery risotto, foie gras, intense full-bodied juice and truffles. A pure moment of grace as winter approaches. Even after tasting it several times, the dish continues to touch me deeply, like a return to a primal emotion. Le Bologne could almost be summed up in this one dish. But that would be to forget Xavier Vulliez, the discreet, confident chef who is following his gastronomic trajectory with brio. His cuisine exudes mastery as much as sensitivity; it’s not about showing off, but about being right. A cuisine that simply speaks.
Fire cart
We resist (not without some vertigo) the call of the pluma de pata negra, only to be surprised by the impeccable bavette, escorted by a Jerusalem artichoke tortilla. An almost bewildering choice in such a house, and yet the combination stands out, with a way of seducing without forcing, just by revealing what’s needed.
And then, come evening, that sweet temptation: the famous dessert cart, generous and irresistible. You think you’re holding out… but then, of course, you give in. Baba au rhum imbibed just right, chocolate mousse regressive enough, opulent and assertive Paris-Brest: everything encourages joyful abandon, and you find yourself smiling like a child.
Bologna may no longer have anything to prove. And yet, every visit proves once again that loyalty, in the kitchen as elsewhere, is a form of excellence.
