Battle horse
Under the leadership of M3 RestaurantsCheval Blanc in Vandoeuvres is writing the first pages of its brand-new history. This elegant, typically Genevan country inn is dear to the hearts of gourmets in search of traditional Italian cuisine. It’s not easy to take up the torch of this place steeped in history. Nina and Giancarlo Carugatti were the founders of the establishment, which has become a benchmark in its field over the years. Nina in the dining room, Giancarlo in the kitchen. As ebullient as he was benevolent, Giancarlo would sometimes step out in front of his theater to welcome his customers. While offering a plate of Parma ham, he would present the unmissable panzarotti (deliciously stuffed pancakes with a devilishly smooth and creamy sauce), which have sadly disappeared from today’s menu. A sign of the changing times, it was young Sébastien Erbeia who took over the reins of the establishment in 1999. A new boss, a new start for a new millennium. He would be the guardian of the temple for over two decades, before moving into the world of craft drinks.
Edouard Amoiel
Milanese alla
Another time, another duo. Today, in the kitchen, chef Matteo Guida takes over the restaurant’s gastronomic score. In the dining room, it’s Tomas di Martino who brings all his experience and his talent as orchestra conductor to a youth still in search of reference points and automatisms. The weather is mild as summer draws to a close, and it’s on the terrace, around white-topped tables, that diners enjoy a menu that combines tradition and innovation. In the image of vitello tonnato, some of the house classics endure and are even given a facelift in terms of presentation. This is no mean feat for an appetizer that is not universally acclaimed, and which perhaps deserves to return to its traditional presentation. It’s hard to blame them, as the duo’s ambitions are clearly to be applauded, but this is always a perilous exercise when tackling an establishment that has to respond to the habits and landmarks of its clientele. Be that as it may, the flavors and culinary technique are spot on. Special mention for the delicate langoustines, lime and roasted fennel.
Edouard Amoiel
Alla milanese
With pieces of grissini incorporated into the breading, the Milanese double veal chop is a real charmer. The imposing piece is presented whole to seated guests, cut into strips on a pedestal table and served directly onto a plate, accompanied by stewed cherry tomatoes. The meat is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. An unmissable emblem of Italian gastronomy, this dish combines opulence in its presentation with elegance in its theatrical production. To our great surprise, pizzas in the sharing mode are born at Cheval Blanc. On the pasta side, maltagliati verdi, veal ragout and parmesan fondue are a real treat.
Memories, memories
There’s no doubt about it, the desire to do well is there, but the challenge of taking over such a place is a big one. Yes, a few adjustments still need to be made for the restaurant to run smoothly. The automatisms are at their limit, in a context where the restaurant world is under pressure. Even if the attempt to combine the old and the new is respected, it’s impossible to satisfy everyone. Two worlds clash, when in fact it’s so simple not to look back and encourage future initiatives. The memories within the walls of this institution are engraved forever, but isn’t it time to create new ones?
Cheval Blanc, 1 route de Meinier, 1253 Vandoeuvres. Phone +41 22 750 14 01
