Äkta: simplicity assumed, product revealed
Time flies, and it’s already been a month since ÄktaGrégoire Lieutet and Lisa Otterstöm’s first establishment, opened its doors at the end of Boulevard de la Cluse. We take our seats on the wooden benches, bathed in the golden rays of autumn, and begin by sipping a fresh, homemade kombucha. In a relaxed atmosphere, we take our pick of the week’s menu, with a choice of starters, main courses and desserts.
A gourd and a touch of Italy
For this second week of October, two distinct but well-thought-out proposals: roasted squash and shrimp arancino. Our heart goes out to the cucurbit and its citrus gastrique, a colorful dish that holds many surprises in store. The squash is melt-in-the-mouth and the tender skin is edible. The neutral taste of fromage frais adds a touch of freshness, while the citrus gastrique stands out for its acidity. A masterful balance that highlights the product without overdoing it.
The plates go by in the dining room, the homemade bread comes out of the oven and invites itself to our table. Crunchy and tasty, we dare to take a piece for dipping, while reserving ourselves for the chuck of beef! Melt-in-the-mouth, moist meat, enhanced by a spicy sauce that unfolds unexpected flavors: it’s a no-brainer! As an accompaniment, a few vegetables and a sweet potato purée soften the power of the chuck and create a fine balance.
Real and generous
For dessert, a Bourdaloue, the famous almond tart with pears, in a revisited version that swaps almonds for hazelnuts. The shortcrust pastry is a little too present, weighing down the whole. A little more hazelnut cream would have provided the expected lightness and sweetness to bring the meal to a fine conclusion.
Äkta’s future is assured! Thanks to its generous, gourmet and resolutely seasonal cuisine, this little neighborhood bistro has everything it takes to become a benchmark for lovers of authenticity. By putting the product at the center, without unnecessary frills, it’s the taste of the real thing and the notion of “well done” that come out on top!
