A.T. RESTAURANT: SLASH & CAMOUFLAGE

Chronicle

A.T. RESTAURANT: SLASH & CAMOUFLAGE

Crazy 4food

Crazy 4food

30 septembre 2019

In his minimalist setting in the Vème arrondissement, Atsushi Tanaka bewilders, bewilders and bewilders.

MINIMALIST

It goes without saying that Atsushi Tanaka is part of a generation of chefs who are shaking up the codes of Paris’s haute gastronomie world, not least in the décor of his establishment (next door to the famous Tour d’Argent), which makes a welcome change from the aging gilding of some of the capital’s palaces and the faded leather banquettes of bistros. This is the cult of minimalism! The interior may seem austere and cold, but after a soft landing, the atmosphere is soothing and reassuring. The furniture is recent, in light beige tones that bring the room to life; the website hasn’t yet been updated on the decor.

FORWARD SLASH

Pierre Gagnaire’s former pupil offers a unique menu of cuisine as incisive as it is clear-cut. Despite the limited choice and unadorned labelling of dishes with slashes, the menu remains attractive. This reduced-to-the-basics formulation lacks a little poetry, but is as much in tune with the zeitgeist as Whatsapp abbreviations like LOL or FYI.

CAMOUFLAGE

The tartelette / girolle / oregano awakens the palate, and the tomato / physalis / hyssop heralds the next sequence, entitled “Camouflage” in both execution and presentation. The chef’s signature dish features trout from Banka (a commune in southwest France) flavored with juniper and topped with chips and parsley. We then move on to a succession of oblique bars with a comforting cep / barley / mussel, a lobster / gourmet corn and a pigeon / celeriac with a pronounced taste.

THE WORD OF HUNGER

The Michelin fairies have not (yet) bent over the cradle of this undeniably talented chef. With a fine list of natural wines and attentive service, Atsushi Tanaka has everything it takes not to remain “camouflaged”.

RESTAURANT A.T.
Atsushi Tanaka
4bis rue du Cardinal Lemoine,
75005 Paris
http://www.atsushitanaka.com/fr/
+33 1 56 81 94 08

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